Masa Assassin

Chef Benito Molina Interview - Baja California's True Pioneer

2010-04-22T20:37:00.000-07:00

Benito Molina Photo by Iker Muris http://www.ikermuris.com/#/inicio

Chefs Solange Muris and Benito Molina photo by Iker Muris
http://www.ikermuris.com/#/inicio

Many of the young talented chefs of Baja California I have met over the years have named Chef Benito Molina as their inspiration and mentor. Regarded as one of the most important figures in Baja California's culinary movement Benito Molina is a true pioneer.

Without putting a label on Benito's style I would describe it as, Artistically crafted dishes utilizing fresh local seafood, combined with the best local and regional ingredients, prepared in innovative fashion while preserving Mexican tradition.

I had a chance to sit down and with Chef Benito at his Restaurant Manzanilla which he runs with his wife Solange Muris. Manzanilla is one of Mexico's top dining destinations.

At what point in your life did you decide you wanted to become a chef?

My mother and grandmother are from Campeche in the Yucatan Peninsula and some of my fondest childhood memories are spending time with them in the markets in Campeche. The colors of the food and the aromas of the fresh fish are forever etched in my memories.

I didn't realize this was something I wanted to do professionally until I was about 20. One night I was laying down looking at the stars in my grandparents apartment in Mexico City and something just hit me. At the time I was studying economics and working a 9 to 5 job at a bank. I think part of the reason I got into economics was the influence of the movie by Oliver Stone, Wall Street, you know back in the 80s when I was going to High School in California everyone wanted to be Gordon Gecko (Michael Douglas character in the movie).

By year two of economics I was really struggling with the advanced math stuff. On the social side of college I was doing very well, I mean I would host some of the best parties and of course cook at the parties, but I really started to dislike the academic side.

So back to that night looking at the stars, I began searching for what made me happy. Everyday at my job in the bank we went out to eat with customers and my boss had me choose the restaurants we would eat at, this would be the highlight of my day, this is what made me happy. I also started to think back to my teen summer job as a busboy at French Restaurant Maxim's Mexico City, those times in that bustling, frantic kitchen stayed with me.

My childhood memories in the mercado in Campeche, experiencing the different restaurants while I was working my 9-5 at the bank, and spending time in the kitchen at Maxim's all culminated into a life changing moment. The next day I quit studying at the University and gave my boss at the bank my 2 weeks notice.

I returned to Maxim's and Mr. Jean Yves Ferrer gave me a job in the kitchen. I was very lucky because the chef did not speak Spanish and I was the only one who spoke French and Spanish. My first task was cleaning a huge amount of shallots , that day I knew I would dedicate the rest of my life to the kitchen.

Who were the most important influences in your career as a chef?

Jean Yves Ferrer who opened the door for me at Maxim's, Michel LeBorgne co-founder of New England Culinary Institute's (NECI) were I went to culinary school, and Chef Todd English.

How has your cuisine evolved from your first experiences in the kitchen to now?

Radical changes, I mean the first time I really started cooking their was so much of a French influence. I still think french food is fantastic but of course now my cuisine has more Mexican influence. I remember some of my best experiences at Maxim's was making some fantastic tacos de lengua for the staff.

You are originally from Mexico City how did you end up in Ensenada ?

I have an uncle from San Blas Nayarit, he was a Marine Biologist and happened to work at an oyster farm when I was a little kid. He would come to the city with the oysters and for me it was a huge event, I probably displayed more emotion when he showed up with the oysters then I did on Christmas Eve.

I grew up on in the city with no contact with the wild, I would sit out on my 10th story terrace and all I wanted was to go to the ocean or live on a farm. My uncle would tell me about Ensenada and it sounded like such an interesting place.

While I was attending High School in Ojai California a friend of of mine who was from Ensenada invited me down for the summer, this was my first experience in Ensenada and I loved it. The next time I came down to Baja was with another friend whose father owned huge professional tuna boats. At this time I had already been excepted into culinary school in Vermont but I wanted to go on the tuna boat before I went off to school.

I spent a month and a half at sea on the tuna boat and it was one of the most beautiful experiences I have had. Several years later, after I finished culinary school, I returned to Mexico City when I received a call from a friend whose brother was looking for a chef in Ensenada. He arranged a meeting with his brother Hugo D' Acosta who at the time ran Santo Tomas Winery and La Embotelladora Vieja. I took a tour of the facilities and of the beautiful countryside of the Valle de Guadalupe and I knew this is were I wanted to be.

My childhood dream of living in the country or by the sea was about to become a reality.

What are your favorite destinations in Mexico to dine?

Oaxaca without a doubt, Mexico City, and Campeche.

Restaurants Manzanilla, Muelle Tres, and Silvestre are your babies, do you and your wife Solange have plans to open anything new in the near future?

The deal is not sealed yet but we plan to open a special place in Tijuana, we already have the space picked out.

Im from San Diego, when you come to our town what is your favorite place to dine?

Sushi Ota for sure, I mean I dream of Sushi Ota.

A Quick Day Trip In Tijuana

2010-04-10T16:56:00.000-07:00

I'm out of state for the week but before I left I made sure I spent a few hours in Tijuana. Here is a little picture post.

Cabeza Tacos at La Chuleta Cento Tijuana

Cerveza Tijuana Brewery

Cerveza Tijuana Beer Flight Sampler

Mexican Microbrew from Beer Box Zona Rio Tijuana

Tacos De Costilla de Res Taninos Wine Bar Zona Rio Tijuana

Salsa for the Tacos de Costilla

Full write up on Beer Box Mexican Micro Brews to come...

El Agave Gastro Bar - Mezcal for the Soul

2010-04-03T12:00:00.001-07:00

Since first reporting about Ensenadas El Agave Gastro Bar back in October I've been anticipating expanding my knowledge in the world of premium Mezcals. I finally made it out to El Agave a few weeks ago and now It is time to profess my love for this fine spirit.

I remember my first introduction to Mezcal, I was probably in my early twenties bar hopping somewhere in Tijuana. I just remember some bottle with a worm inside that tasted like gasoline. Unfortunately most people are first introduced to a cheap, diluted, chemically altered, mass produced Mezcal,as I was.

The purity of true Mezcal has a distinctive soulful earthiness, floral undertones and elegant smoky qualities. As the gracious host "Chava" pulled down the obscure artisanal Mezcals from all over Oaxaca State, I noticed each had its own distinct character and purity.

My notes became jaded after a few Mezcals, but I did manage to jot down Pierde Almas Mezcal as being one of the favorites of Ms. Masa and I. Pierde Almas is a double distilled spirit, primarily derived from three different species of agave, Espadin, Dobadaan, and the prized Tobala.

As the Mezcals kept coming I was served some fresh botanas, the first was a simple house made guacamole spread on a tortilla.

If you follow my blog you no my love for stuffed chiles so when I looked at the board and noticed "Chiles de Agua" I just had to order it. Roasted Chiles de Agua stuffed with Oaxacan Cheese in a Black-Bean Purée. Spicy with herbal notes and the perfect accompaniment for my Mezcals.

I was hoping to get some gusanos de maguey (which I love) but they were all out so I ordered some Chapulines, seasoned lemon and garlic roasted grasshoppers.

If you want to experience what an outstanding Mezcal and world-class spirit tastes like, check out El Agave Gastro bar. The owners Laura and Chava are super friendly and will be more then happy to give you a taste of Oaxaca. For more information you can visit my original post here.

El Agave Av. Ruiz #230-a (2nd and Ruiz)
Tel (646) 175-7467
152*14*13470
elagave@hotmail.com

Tijuana Nightlife

2010-03-24T19:53:00.000-07:00

I ran across ran across a video by Kathleen Kilpatrick I thought Id share. The video describes the changes in Tijuana Nightlife specifically the Calle Sexta transformation.

TJ's New Nightlife from Kathleen Kilpatrick on Vimeo.

In other Tijuana news a popular video of mine got yanked off You Tube based on copyright grounds. I guess this big media conglomerate had issue with little ole Masa Assassin using a minute and forty seconds of one of their songs in a taco video. Ive been making videos for years and always use background music, I'm not sure what to think of this. I don't even use full songs and the quality is low.

Oh well I'm sure its a matter of time before this gets yanked so I'm in the process of coming up with different background music, meanwhile I'm open to any suggestions.

I don't want to type the name of the company because they are probably scouring the web but it sounds like Warmer Musaq Poop. I just read an article about someone who had a similar experience and wrote about it in detail here. Here is my video from the original post on Fitos Tacos Tijuana.

Worlds Fastest Taco Stand - Tacos Fitos Tijuana Mexico from Masa Assassin on Vimeo.

El Sarmiento Restaurant Ensenada - Coastal Excellence in Baja

2010-03-20T00:10:00.001-07:00

During my ride home back to San Diego from Ensenada this past weekend, I just had to smile. After spending the last few days in Ensenada, I could not have capped off my trip better then the meal I had at El Sarmiento.With breathtaking views, exceptional service, and a great chef El Sarmiento is a perfect addition to the culinary scene in Ensenada.

Chef/Owner Guillermo Jose Barreto just opened a few weeks ago and already has the local food and wine enthusiasts buzzing.Guillermo comes to Ensenada from Mexicali were he runs the successful "La Piazza". Guillermo studied the culinary arts in Italy, and has been inspired my chefs Benito Molina (Manzanilla/Muelle Tres/Silvestre) and Jair Tellez (Laja/Merotoro). Guillermo definitely brings a new and exiting twist to the local Baja scene with his use of fresh local ingredients and his classic Italian training.

When I first stepped into El Sarmiento I was embraced by the rustic charm. Small, cozy, and a stones throw away from the pacific ocean, whats not to love.

While we were waiting for some friends we were served a delightful potato soup. Potato, and leek, with hints of smoky bacon and bleu cheese.

For appetizers we each ordered the taquitos de lengua (tongue tacos). Simple and well put together. One tender slice of beef tongue complimented with cool cucumbers and guacamole topped with a mouth-watering pickled radish laced with serrano. An exciting rendition of tacos de lengua and worth the visit alone.

The juicy shrimp skewers paired perfectly with asian chili sauce and green onion oil.

At this point I wanted to shoot myself because my camera was acting up, perhaps it was operator error, or maybe it had something to do with all the mezcal I had the day before. Unfortunately pictures I had taken of two standout dishes did not come out. One dish was a whole kilo of sirlion, so tender you could cut it with a fork, and the other was the fish of the day. The fish of the day was a table favorite. Fresh Yellowtail with chile oil, white wine, tomatoes and fresh parsley.

I really love Chef Guillermos chile oils and sauces. The yellowtail chile oil was a blend of three Mexican chiles, and I'm still thinking about the sauce that came with the sirloin steak. The sauce was a concoction of green onion, habanero, almond, and olive oil. Another great dish that put the chile oils to good use was the veal.Delicate tender veal topped with grilled (on applewood) asparagus and prosciutto.

El Sarmiento also bakes fresh bread daily and makes some amazing pizza. Everything is prepared in a Wood-fired oven.

I highly recommend the cheesecake parfait. I would describe it as upside down guava cheesecake with almonds and sage incredibly delicious.

We really enjoyed our time at El Sarmiento and look forward to the next visit. We had baby masa with us on this trip and she loved it, the place is very kid friendly. She loved playing outside, and in her words the "yummy" pizza. Of course I couldn't help but to think what a romantic spot this would be to enjoy without kids. Great food and wine with the picturesque backdrop of the Baja Sunset.My fellow food blogging friend Tania captured the beauty of the sunset very close to the location we were seated.

Photo by:Tania Livier

El Sarmiento is opened Wednesday - Saturday 230pm-11pm
and Sunday from 1pm to 7pm. Major Credit Cards Excepted/Staff Bilingual
The location is adjacent to a wine shop (La Contra) and a neighboring restaurant.
KM.104 Scenic Highway 1 No 5826 El Sauzal, Ensenada BC Mex

Chile Rellenos - Dried Stuffed Ancho Chiles with Plantains and Cream

2010-02-25T21:52:00.000-08:00

One of Mexicos most best-known dishes Chile Rellenos (stuffed chiles) is often prepared with fresh poblanos fried in light batter and heated in tomato sauce but there are many regional variances on this popular dish. Jalapeno, manzano, dried pasado, pasilla de Oaxaca, and chili ancho take your pick.

Although I'm a big fan of the battered poblano recipe I wanted to try something different with the poblanos dried cousin the chile ancho. I was soon inspired by a creation of Ricardo Munoz Zurita on the Rick Bayless show "Mexico - One Plate at a Time". How can I go wrong with a the culinary genius of Ricardo Zurita. Ricardo is the chef behind Mexico City's Azul y Oro and author of 4 cookbooks including the 600-page Encyclopedia of Mexican Gastronomy.

This recipe was not listed on Rick Bayless site and the exact measurements were not discussed so we pretty much had to eyeball it and take notes.

Ingredients

Serves 10

12 Chiles Ancho (Always purchase a few more then you need some might fall apart when you are removing seeds and veins)
4 very ripe Plantains
4-5 Garlic cloves crushed
1 whole chopped onion
3 chopped roma tomatoes
3/4 pound of panela chesse
1 small piloncillo cone
1/2 cup of grated piloncillo
dash of salt
dash of pepper

(Piloncillo is an unrefined sugar from Mexico produced in "cone" shapes of various sizes)

Garnish

1 pound of Mexican Crema
Parsley

Dissolve the whole cone of piloncillo in hot water, cover the chiles in the hot water, pushing them down into the water so that they are totally submerged. Soak for 10 min, Ricardo recommended 5 min but we did not achieve the level of softness we were looking for. You also do not want to soak the chiles to long or they will get to soft and fall apart.

Remove the chiles from water and carefully make a slit on one side and remove veins and seeds. Make sure the stem does not fall off and try not to tear the chile.

Bake the plantains for 10 min at 350

Chop tomatoes, queso panela and onions, crush the garlic and ground 1/2 cup of piloncillo. Remove plantains from oven and chop into cubes.

Heat oil and saute onion and garlic. Add tomato and cook for 5 min. Add plantains and cook for another 10 min. Add piloncillo powder, pinch of salt and pinch of pepper and mix well. Remove from heat and add queso panela.

Add 2-3 tablespoons of filling to each chile ancho. Fold crease over and place on a plate with crease down. Garnish with Crema and Parsley.

As I was shooting the final shots I caved in and took a bite.

The Chile Ancho is mild in spice and has somewhat of a fruity flavor. The flavor profile of the ancho played well with the plantains and we were very pleased with the results. I have been craving Chiles en Nogada but they are not in season yet so this was a nice alternative that is much easier to make. I guess we will have to go for the trifecta and feature the ever so popular battered Chile Rellenos soon.

Chiles en Nogada

Restaurante UNO Tijuana - Showcasing Baja California's Talented Young Chefs

2010-02-11T18:52:00.001-08:00

After several months away from Tijuana what was one of the first places I couldn't wait to get back to? A restaurant in Gastronomic District? No not exactly, the very first place that came to mind was near the Agua Caliente Racetrack and it was none other than Restaurante UNO.

My wife and I wanted a special, relaxing and intimate dining experience and UNO did not disappoint. Just like our first visit the service was exceptional.UNOs kitchen is run by two young and talented chefs Ricardo Hiroshi Uno and Diego Hernández. On this particular day Diego Hernández was at the helm.

During childhood visits to the markets in Toluca Mexico, Diego Hernández became fascinated by the colors and aromas of the food products. Diegos grandmother was a great cook and she was a key factor in sparking Diegos interest into the culinary world. At the young age of 18 Diego began to work with pioneering chef Benito Molina at Manzanilla Restaurant in Ensenada. Diegos time in Ensenada with Benito opened his eyes to the wonderful regional products of Baja California.

Fresh fish from Ensenada, salads from the garden, pork from ranches in Rosarito, beef from Hermosillo, wine from the Valle De Guadalupe, we could not decide on what to order so we asked Diego to showcase his talents and went for the Menu de Degustation. Degustation turned out to be an 8 course meal that represented all the best the region had to offer fused together with the chefs creative techniques.

UNO

A shot of Mexican amber beer with shrimp, clam, and mussels.

DOS

Smoked oysters

TRES

Pork Tocina with black habenero, crema, masa and avocado balls, on a bed of white beans.

QUATRO

Chocolate Clam roasted habenero soup with smoked bread laced with lemongrass shavings.

CINCO

Arugula green bean salad with queso fresco

SEIS

Jurel (Yellowtail) in a chile sauce of chile cascabel, peanuts, and sesame served with fresh vegetables.

SIETE

Lechon en Adobada with a puré of serrano and avocado, emulsion of corn and fried beans.

OCHO was actually a creme brulee I gobbled up so fast I didn't get to snap a picture.

So their you have it, another unique dining experience at Restaurante Uno. Everything that came out of the kitchen was a great pleasure of the senses but I must say, my favorite dish would have to be the Pork Tocina. Succulent pork with little corn masa balls are you kidding me? Everything about this worked like a symphony. The spice of the black habenero, complemented by sweet corn masa balls, cooled with fresh avocado and crema with the subtle white beans providing the canvas for the art.

Come experience the talent of the young chefs in Baja.

Av. de Las Ferias #5202, Col. del Bosque C.P. 22o34 Tijuana, B.C Mexico.
Reservations (664) 681.3203

View Larger Map

UNO Website (Spanish)
UNO Blog
UNO Facebook Page

Masa Assassin Turns 1 Year !

2010-02-02T18:04:00.000-08:00

I can’t believe it been a year since I first sat down and wrote about Erizo Cebicheria in Tijuana. First of I want to thank all my readers and subscribers I really appreciate the many encouraging comments and emails and I have received. I'm sorry for not being active the last few months but I hope to get back in full swing by end of February.

So where has Masa been? Well it’s been a combination of a few things that has kept me from blogging the past few months. In November I had some goals to reach with my main passion "Muay Thai". Muay Thai is a Martial Art from Thailand also known as Thai boxing; it’s similar to Western Kickboxing however elbows and knees are also utilized. The weekend excursions of all out food binges were finally catching up to me and my eating habits were not exactly helping my efforts in training.

In December things just got so busy with the holidays and by the time December rolled around my wife and I committed to a serious diet regiment. Living healthy active lifestyles we pretty much always ate sensible during the week but it was the weekend food blogging that finally took a toll on the waistline.

So here we are at the beginning of February most of our goals have been met and we are ready to indulge. Before we start the new 2010 blog post I would like to take a look back at a few of our favorite photos of 2009 and the story behind them.

1. Tres Leches Cake (original post here)

This was very fun to make we even had our five year old daughter involved in the process. We finished the cake in the evening and refrigerated it, planning to take photos in natural sunlight the next day. My wife had to work the next day so I was alone to work on the presentation of the cake and take photos.

I had the first slice ready to go but something just didn’t look right. The strawberries looked a little wilted. I put the cake back in the fridge and headed to the market for some fresh strawberries. When I returned from the market I fanned the strawberries, grabbed some mint from the garden, and I was ready to take the shot. I think the phone rang or something startled me but I ended up dropping the plate, and the slice of tres leches cake went crashing onto the kitchen floor.

I ended up re dressing a new piece and took it in the backyard for the final shoot. I was shooting the pictures so fast because tres leches is like ice cream and I was worried it would melt away. I finally got the shots I was looking for, sat back and enjoyed my tres leches cake! I have received so much positive feedback on this recipe it has by far been our most popular post.

2. Camaron Enchilado Spicy Shrimp Taco - Tacos El Mazateno Tijuana (original post here)

I was so surprised at the results of this one because Its usually difficult to achieve good results when restaurants are very crowded. On this particular day their must have been 100 people enjoying the mariscos at El Mazateno. We ended up actually sharing a table with some friendly strangers. As my wife was striking up a conversation I busted my big camera out the bag and started shooting away.

I usually try to be somewhat discreet when I’m taking pictures of my food but it was pretty tough to do it in this case. I ended up rushing the shots just hoping I snapped at least one good one. Really no secrets of photography behind this one, sometimes random shots are the best. To this day this remains one of my favorite tacos and every time I look at this pic I want to make a run to the border.

3. Bacon Wrapped Hot Dogs (Original Post)

After enjoying these Hot Dogs down south for years we decided to replicate them at home. Unlike most of the cooking we cover this was our first crack at this pork frenzy. I have my brother to thank on this one he actually did a great job wrapping the bacon around the Hot Dog and cooking them.

I was still very new to DSLR cameras at this time so I experimented much with this one. Like most of my home pictures this was taken in my backyard and I used a simple white background. Some shots from this session have made their way around the internet including a great piece on 100 ways to use a strip of bacon.

As far as food styling goes I don’t spray my food with anything, pretty much everything I shoot is consumed shortly after the photo is taken, and I mean shortly ha-ha. I will always remember this photo as my first photo submitted and accepted by the top food porn sites foodgawker and TasteSpotting.

4. Chocolate Soufflé - Manzanilla Restaurant (Original Post)

Ah my favorite chocolate soufflé. Anyone who knows me knows my weakness is chocolate. I never leave manzanilla restaurant without my chocolate shuffle fix. Although manzanilla is opened for lunch I would almost always find myself enjoying a late dinner. I try to avoid photos with flash as much as I can so the shots I was getting at night were not doing the soufflé justice.

I decided to make a special trip right at the time of opening and ordered all of my favorite dishes. It turned out to be a good move I finally got the lighting I needed and my chocolate fix. I'm not sure why I like this one so much perhaps its my love for chocolate. I actually got the idea of fanning my strawberries for my tres leches cake picture from this one. The souffle is actually served on a piece of black marble which is the perfect backdrop for the white powdered sugar, and red strawberries.

5. Fresh Baja Scallops with strawberry and Chile Morita - La Cocedora de Langosta Ensenada (original post)

The lighting at La Cocedora de Langosta has always been good to me. I never thought something as simple as a scallop could look so good. One thing I have learned is that each dish has its own personality. Ive noticed its always best to snap food photos seconds after they have been prepared.

I'm still learning about food photography and hope to improve this year.Thanks again for your support!

Tacos Gobernador - San Diego Gobernador Taco Throwdown

2009-11-07T20:34:00.000-08:00

From Sinaloa to Sonora to San Diego every time I order a Taco Gobernador (Governor) I can almost guarantee I will be getting something different at each establishment. The Taco Gobernador is said to have originated in Sinaloa Mexico and named after an ex governor of Sinaloa. The first version I tried was in Sinaloa and had a combination of shrimp, marlin, and cheese. Over the years I have had countless renditions with only one common denominator “Shrimp”.

With my travels to Mexico limited for a few months I decided to put some Gobernadors in San Diego head to head so I grabbed my brother, jumped in the car, and let the games begin. It should be no surprise my favorite gobernadors come from mobile trucks and not restaurants.

First stop Mariscos German 35th and University San Diego. I have tried almost all of Mariscos German locations and they are pretty consistent across the board. Mariscos Germans Gobernadors consist of Red Onion, Cilantro, Celery, Shrimp, Cheese, and Tomato.

Overall I find no faults in this taco and it has been a long time favorite of mine. The Shrimp was cooked to perfection with just the right amount of seasoning and the veggies and cheese grilled just right. This still stands as my number one choice for this style of taco.

Second stop Mariscos El Pescador Chula Vista. Mariscos El Pescador in Chula Vista is my usual Fish Taco stop but I decided to see how their gobernador stacked up to Mariscos German side by side. The Gobernadors at El Pescador are very similar to Mariscos German. El Pescadors Gobernador consist of Shrimp, Bell Pepper, Celery, Onion, Cilantro, Tomato, and Red Onion.

If you’re taking notes Bell Pepper is the only difference from Germans version. Another difference on Pescadors gobernador is they butterfly the shrimp. My only faults with this version is I feel it needs less seasoning and vegetables. Defiantly a top contender in the Gobernador throwdown, and on this day and a close second.

Third stop Mariscos El Paisa San Ysidro. We worked our way south to San Ysidro and decide to check out Mariscos El Paisa. With Mariscos German representing San Felipe and El Pescador representing Ensenada I knew the representation from El Paisa (Culiacan Sinaloa) would be different. This version had no grilled vegetables and consisted of just shrimp, tomato, lettuce, cilantro, and crema.

The shrimp was succulent and the taco was double wrapped in some quality tortillas however their was way too much crema for my taste. Although the crema was very tasty it just totally took over. Next time I order one from here I will be sure to ask them to go easy on the crema. A minimum of two tacos come in one order which is actually a bargain at $5.00. I believe Mariscos German and Mariscos El Pescador are in the $3.75 each range.

All and all a good day for a shrimp lover like me. I’m sure there are many more great Gobernador tacos out their, if you have any favorites I didn’t mention I would love to hear about them. Its gets very interesting when you judge tacos side by side. It was also great to get another perspective, my brother also agreed at MG 1, Pescador 2, and Paisa 3.

1. Mariscos German
3504 University Ave
between 35th St & Wilson Ave)
San Diego, CA 92104
619) 392-2351

2.Mariscos El Pescador
Toys-r-us Parking Lot
1008A Industrial Blvd
Chula Vista, CA 91911

3.Mariscos El Paisa
3170 Iris Ave San Diego 92154
(Cross Street 30th)Near Trolley

Mariscos El Paisa San Diego - Estilo Culiacan Sinaloa Mexico

2009-10-14T18:10:00.000-07:00

A taco truck that has two waitresses??? What??? Well technically according to the Webster Merriam Dictionary the definition of a waitress is “a woman who waits tables (as in a restaurant)”. Well this is not a restaurant, and no tables are in site, but it gets so busy here they have a team of two outside the truck that take your order and serve you.

I’ve been to an abundance of taco trucks and I have not seen an arrangement quite like this. If it gets that crowded “it must be good”, right? Especially when Mariscos German on Beyer Ave is a stone’s throw away. In San Diego Mariscos German has long been my bench mark for Seafood Tacos, followed by Mariscos El Pescador for Fish Tacos. So how does Mariscos El Paisa stack up????

I’ve had everything on the Menu at Mariscos German and 90% of El Pescadors so it would not be a fair comparison at this point, however I will tell you the Fish and Shrimp Tacos are definitely worth a try at this point. With one stop already under my belt I ordered only two tacos, I’m glad I did because the tacos were huge.

Shrimp Taco

Fish Taco

Now “taco purist” may scoff at the use of lettuce rather than cabbage on Fish or Shrimp Tacos but I must say in this case it worked well. The fish and shrimp were both fresh and plump. The crema was tasty and unique and the lettuce and tomatoes were fresh. Other then the tortilla falling apart it’s defiantly worth your buck.

I typically order beyond the basic Fish and Shrimp so I’m eager to get back this week and sample the rest of the goods on the menu. The menu is not very extensive however a few things on the board captured my attention.

I’m eager to check out their Gobernador Taco which is usually grilled shrimp with melted cheese but has varied at every Restaurant or Taco Truck I have tried it at. I’m not a huge Burrito fan but the Alazan sounds interesting. At first look I thought the “Super Ranas” was going to be frog leg tacos however the Super Ranas is a taco with melted cheese Marlin, Octopus, Shrimp, and Fish with a minimum order of two. I also look forward to sampling their Caldos (Soups); I just hope I have room for it all.

I will update this report as soon as I try more of the fine offerings representing Culiacan Sinaloa Mexico. This may be too far south for some but if you’re in the area check it out, it’s been here years and is here to stay. Spanish helps.

Mariscos El Paisa Truck
3170 Iris Ave San Diego 92154 (Cross Street 30TH)Near Trolley

Chiles en Nogada (Chilies In Walnut Sauce) Recipe

2009-10-13T08:34:00.001-07:00

Chiles en Nogada is probably my favorite Mexican dish of all. I had have versions at Restaurants in the past but nothing has compared to this homemade version. My wife and I were first inspired to make this after reading a post on Chowhound last year.

Agustin de Iturbide was a military commander who fought in Mexico's War of Independence, and later went on to become Emperor of Mexico in 1822. Agustin signed the treaty of Cordoba that granted Mexico its Independence. On his way to Mexico City, Agustin stopped in the city of Puebla where the townspeople decided to hold a feast to celebrate the Independence from Spain and Iturbide’s saint’s day, August 28th. The Augustinian nuns of Santa Monica convent were in charge of creating a special dish for the occasion. Using local ingredients that were in season they came up with a dish that proudly bore the colors of the Mexican flag; in this dish were the green chilies, the white sauce, and the red pomegranate seeds.

Serves 10

Ingredients

10 Large Poblano Chiles, charred, peeled, seeds and veins removed
1 Pound of Ground Pork
1 Pound of Ground Beef
Salt to Taste
9 Tomatoes
2 Bay Leaves
Pinch of Oregano
1 Whole Crushed Garlic
1 Chopped White Onion
1/2 Chopped jalapeño (optional for extra spice)
1 Chopped Apple core removed
1 Chopped Peach pit removed
1 Chopped Pear core removed
1 Ripe Plantain peeled and chopped
2oz Raisins
1oz Walnuts
1oz Pecans
1 stick of Cinnamon
3oz chopped dried Pineapple
Cooking Oil

The Walnut Sauce (Nogada)

1 lb of Mexican Crema
¼ - 1/2 Cup Milk
¾ Pound Queso Fresco
½ Ounce Chopped Pecan
2 Ounce Chopped Walnut

Garnish

1 Cup Pomegranate Seeds
½ Cup Cilantro

Cover tomatoes with water and simmer until soft about 10 minutes, Remove skin from tomatoes and blend.

Line large pot or skillet with cooking oil; add whole crushed garlic, onions, and jalapeño. Stir in ground pork and beef and cook over medium low heat until meat is browned. Salt to taste, add pinch of oregano, cinnamon stick, and bay leaf. Add the tomatoes and salt to taste.

Stir in the raisins and chopped walnuts. After several minutes add the chopped pear, apple, plantains, and mix well, continue cooking over medium-high heat until most of the moisture has evaporated. Stir often let cool, cover, and set aside.

Smear a light coating of vegetable oil on the poblano chile, directly place chile over an open flame. Turn the chiles from time to time to allow skin to blister and char lightly. Place them immediately into a plastic bag or seal with plastic wrap and leave them to sweat for about 10-15 minutes. This allows the skin to moisten. Remove skin and clean off with the edge of a spoon. Make a slit in the side of each chile and carefully remove the seeds and veins. Gloves are recommended; we also recommended you do not rinse the chilies.

Stuff the chiles with the picadillo until they are full, place seam on bottom of plate

Blend the crema, milk, queso fresco, pecans and walnuts until smooth. You can play with the amounts of cheese and milk until you get your desired consistency. Cover the chiles in the nogada sauce and sprinkle with fresh cilantro and pomegranate seeds.

Here is a video from last year which was made with the help of the author of the original post from chowhound. We pretty much stuck with the same recipe with exception of the nogada was made with water instead of milk on the video.

Chiles en Nogada is a very complex dish that maintains a pleasing balance between the savory and sweet. We love serving it to guest and have them guessing the ingredients. If you have any questions regarding the preparation feel free to leave a comment.

Chiles en Nogada

Tacos El Poblano Chula Vista and some Ensenada News

2009-10-06T18:01:00.000-07:00

Back in July I reported on Tacos El Poblano, arguably one of the best spots for Carne Asada Tacos in Tijuana. When I was talking with the owner he had mentioned he wanted to open a new place in Chula Vista/San Diego area, well he was true to his word and Tacos El Poblano is now open for Business in Chula Vista. I can’t wait to see how they stack up to their Tijuana counterpart. If you want to check it out yourself the address is on the ad below. You can read about the history of the original in Tijuana here…… . You can also check out a report on the Chula Vista location at my friend Kirks (mmm-yoso) awesome blog here....

UltraMarino by Barra Azul Now Open
I had a chance to stop by Ensenada’s newest bar UltraMarino Bar a few weeks ago. I’m a big fan of their sister restaurant Barra Azul and was curious what menu options they would bring to their new Bar. Ultra Marino is a Bar first and foremost but I was pleased to see I could get my tempura battered oyster fix here. The presentation differs from the picture below(Taken at Barra Azul) but the taste is identical. They serve a wide variety of drinks including some interesting martini offerings that include oyster flavor.

UltraMarino is Located at First and Ruiz.

Last month Jay (The Linkery Restaurant in San Diego) informed me about a new a restaurant on the coast of El Sauzal Ensenada called Gazuza. Gazuza is located at the same location the Oaxacan Restaurant at Viento was previously located. They actually moved it closer to the coast the scene is breathtaking. I hope to get back their soon and provided a full report. Thanks Jay.

El Agave Gastro Bar - Ensenadas One and Only Mezcal Bar

2009-09-25T20:52:00.000-07:00

I’m very excited about the new Mezcal bar “El Agave” opening in Ensenada. El Agave is owned and operated by Laura and Chava who at one time owned the Oaxacan restaurant in El Sauzal Ensenada. This will be a place to sit back, relax and enjoy an endless variety of Mezcals including Cremas De Mezcal along with some delicious Oaxacan botanas.

Primarily produced in Oaxaca Mezcal (or Mescal) is a Mexican spirit distilled from the agave plant. While some tequilas may contain 51% agave all Mezcal must contain 100% agave. If you have never tried Mezcal it has a smokier taste then tequila. The Smokey taste comes from the production process of roasting small batches of agave in an earth oven. I find sipping on premium Mezcals very delightful and enjoy their complex full flavors and aromas.

I had a chance to take a sneak peek at El Agave which will be opening soon. It’s just past 2nd Ave on Ruiz just a stone’s throw away from my favorite bacon wrapped hot dog cart.

If you cannot find parking on the street they have 3 reserved spots directly across the street.

The inside has a nice warm vibe with couches inviting you to sit down, relax, and sip on some premium Mezcal.

The bar area sports some very cool pictures of the Mezcal production process and will soon be lined with premium Mezcal and more.

They have very cool back lighting of the Agave I tried to capture on my camera.

Every time you are served a Mezcal you will receive a pairing with some Oaxacan Botanas. If you have not had a chance to try Laura and Chavas cooking you’re in for a treat, along with their home style cooking their hospitality is unmatched. If Mezcal is not your thing they will also be serving some artisanal beers and more. I hope to be posting more details about the opening soon, see you their.

Chilaquiles Recipe

2009-09-11T16:47:00.000-07:00

Layers of soft yet crunchy fried tortillas dripping with red sauce, topped with crema, queso fresco, red onion, cilantro and served with over easy fried eggs, I really can’t think of a better way to start the day then Chilaquiles.

Chilaquiles date back to ancient times and are traditionally made from stale tortillas. Stale tortillas will absorb much less oil, making chilaquiles a perfect way to use leftovers. After the basis of stale tortillas everything else is influenced on regional and personal preferences.

After reading about Diana Kennedys Chilaquiles Veracruzanos in her Essential Cusines of Mexico book I asked my wife if she remembered her grandmas Chiliquiles recipe. Her Grandma was raised in Veracruz and the recipes turned out to be very similar with exception of a couple of ingredients.

Ingredients
Serves 6-8

Sauce
2 Tablespoons Vegetable Oil
2 Ancho Chiles seeds and veins removed
1 Cascabel Chile (Optional for a bit more spice)
8 Roughly Chopped Roma Tomatoes
1 Half Roughly Chopped onions
3 Garlic Cloves
Salt to Taste
1 Cup Chicken Broth

Tortillas
Vegetable Oil for Frying
24 Tortillas Cut Into Pieces

Toppings
Crema
½ Red Onion Thinly Sliced
3 Sprigs of Cilantro
1/3 Cup Crumbled Queso Fresco

Heat the oil in a skillet. Fry the chile for about 1 minute on each side. Remove the chili, cover with hot water, and leave to soak for 5 to 10 minutes.

Add tomatoes, onions and garlic to the same pan and grill until they are softened. Transfer the drained chile, tomatoes, onions and garlic to a blender and blend until smooth.

Reheat the oil and add the sauce, season with salt and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, about 4 minutes, add the broth and cook for 1 minute more. Remove from the heat and keep warm.

Heat the oil and fry the tortilla pieces, about one third at a time so they cook evenly, until they just stiffen but do not brown, about 3-4 minutes a batch.

Transfer the fried tortillas to paper towels to drain while you fry the rest; add a bit more oil to the skillet and lower the heat if necessary.

Stir in tortillas and cook over medium heat for 5 to 8 minutes, or until most of the sauce has been absorbed, allow just enough time for tortillas to absorb the salsa. Stir Constantly, the tortilla pieces should be soft yet crunchy.

Serve immediately and top with crema, cilantro, and red onion. I love mine served with Over easy fried eggs.

Enjoy!

Chilaquiles

Lobster and Wine Festival Ensenada - 2009 Fiestas de la Vendimia

2009-09-06T22:36:00.000-07:00

As August came to end I look back and see I had my least productive month of Blog posting, August was just such a busy month with family, training, work and fiestas. August is the month of Fiestas in Ensenada know as Fiestas de la Vendimia. More than thirty events are held over a sixteen day period during August showcasing wine, food, music and cultural events throughout the region.

I was lucky enough to attend the Lobster and Wine Chardonnay Festival held at Santo Tomas Winery and had a fantastic time. When I arrived I noticed Chef Fabio Lira of La Cocedora de Langosta performing his mastery on the grill with some fresh Baja Lobster. Fabio was on the grill nonstop for hours and hours and I will say one thing, Fabio definitely knows his way around the grill. I which I could replicate the aroma from all the succulent grilled lobster, it was very inviting.

Another master at his craft was Carlos Travesi from Caprichos Restaurant. Back in September when I attended the Guateque Wine Festival I noticed Carlos working for hours on a Paella, Carlos was at it again this time with a wonderful Lobster Paella

This Fiesta was all about the Langosta and Vino (Lobster and Wine) but I must say Caprichos makes a burger that can stand with the best of them. The burger starts with Grilled Sonoran beef and local Real del Castillo cheese, that combination alone is special.

Deep fried lobster Puerto Nuevo Style was also available to order, I’m not sure who the vendor was but their Lobster was a very popular choice amongst the crowd.

Wine was free flowing from Monte Xanic, Vinistera, Santo Tomas, L.A. Cetto , and much more.

Liz from Monte Xanic

Santo Tomas Representing

With the flow of chardonnay and the rhythm of the Cuban band the Dance floor was buzzing with people sharing good times.

Besides the Lobster and Wine some very nice Mexican Art was on display. If you would like more information on the Fiestas my friend Steve Dryden usually puts something out before the events so be on the lookout. I also came across a nice article by a local San Diego writer Amy Wine here. Next year I hope to make much more events, and I highly recommend you join the fun. The people of Ensenada sure know how to throw a party.

Cuban Chicken Fricassee - Fricasé de Pollo

2009-08-25T18:48:00.000-07:00

My Mom had been in Cuba for over a month and I not only missed her but I missed her cooking. I have been craving my Moms Chicken Fricasse and as soon as she got back from Cuba she came over and shared this long time family recipe. As with any traditional Cuban recipe you will find some variances on some of the ingredients used. I have seen many Chicken Fricasse recipes use a tomato base, but my mom never used a tomato base and I'm fine with that. To me this dish was perfect as is.

Ingredients

5 Lbs of Chicken (bone-in, skin-on)
Olive Oil (enough to cover pan)
1/4 Cup vinegar
1 Cup white wine
3 Tablespoons of Capers
1 Tablespoon Caper Juice
12 Manzanilla Olives
2 Bay Leaves
1 Tablespoon Cummin
6 Whole All Spice
1 Tablespoon Peppercorns
1 Whole Chopped Onion
1 Whole Green Pepper
1 Whole Red Pepper
6 Garlic Cloves
1 Pack of Sauzon Goya
Salt to taste

Season individual chicken pieces with salt. Add all ingredients in a container, cover and refrigerate 1 to 2 hours.

Remove chicken from the marinade.

Strain and reserve marinade juice.

Warm the oil in a large Dutch oven over medium heat and brown the chicken pieces. Pour into the pot all of the remaining ingredients , sauteing with the chicken until onions are translucent, about 3 -5 min.

Add reserved marinade juice. Reduce heat to low, cover pan and simmer for 30 min.

Serves well with white rice

Silvestre – Ensenadas Valle De Guadalupe Seasonal Restaurants Part 2

2009-08-17T17:52:00.000-07:00

This weekend I was sitting at the bar in Manzanilla Restaurant talking to a nice young couple from California about the great restaurants in Ensenada. The young couple was on their honeymoon and had heard about Manzanilla through a travel guide. They were really enjoying their meal and I suggested they also check out Grupo Manzanillas seasonal restaurant Silvestre located in Ensenadas wine country.

Silvestre makes the perfect spot for a romantic dinner, a rustic outdoor setting overlooking sprawling vineyards. Silvestre offers a Prix Fixe 6 course menu centered around local organic vegetables, fresh seafood, and mesquite grilled meats.

Some of the highlights of a recent visit included.....

Tomato and basil with cheese and olive oil
The tomatoes and basil tasted just-picked fresh and it’s no wonder the cheese and olive oil of Baja are gaining recognition outside the region.

I have written about the mouth-watering oysters at Muelle Tres and Manzanilla before so I will just leave you with a photo.

Swordfish with Couscous
Fresh, light and packed of flavor the couscous was incredibly delightful and the perfect accompaniment to the moist grilled swordfish.

Mesquite Grilled Sonoran Rib Eye With Grilled Vegetables
A meal in itself this was my personal favorite. I took some of the juicy aged sonoran steak with cebollitas and placed them inside a warm tortilla, fantastic !

Silvestre is opened on Saturday and Sunday from 1pm to 6pm from June to October. Located on Carretera Ensenada-Tecate HWY 3 at KM 83. If your travelling from the coast its about a 20-30 min drive and is located right before the Domeq winery (number 2 on the map, you can click on the map and enlarge it in Flickr.). The summer is a perfect time to visit Ensenada especially with great seasonal choices like Silvestre.

El Laguito - Ensenadas Valle De Guadalupe Seasonal Restaurants Part 1

2009-08-09T19:51:00.000-07:00

On the Fourth of July weekend my family and I were looking for a place to relax and avoid the crowds. The tranquility of Ensenadas wine country sounded like the perfect solution so we headed straight to the Valle de Guadalupe. If you have not been through the Valle de Guadalupe this year the road is now nicely paved all the way through.

If your planning a trip to Ensenada during the summer months be sure not to miss one of the great seasonal restaurants open for business. The standouts are Benito Molinas Silvestre and Jair Tellez El Laguito. El Laguito (Little Lagoon) is located at Monte Xanic Winery. Prior to dining at Lauguito we stopped at the Monte Xanic tasting room to enjoy some of their great premium wines.

After a full round of tastings it was time to step outside and take in the view overlooking the sprawling vineyards, El Laguito is actually tucked away under the trees. Picnic tables are set up overlooking the lagoon and ducks roam freely around the park-like setting. Sipping on some Monte Xanic wine and gazing out to the lagoon provided the exact tranquil effect we were looking for.

We decided on a round of appetizers and the standout favorite of the afternoon would have to be the handmade sausage. Succulent juicy and grilled to perfection, the sausage is actually grilled using grapevine wood.

As a Pulpo (Octopus) lover the pulpo en escabeche has to be one of my favorite preparations

The menu features a variety of locally grown and produced food including pizzas, salads, steaks, and more. They have a drink called Agua del Lago that's infused with seven different herbs and is very refreshing don't miss it. El Laguito is open Saturdays and Sundays from 1200 to around 7pm and is located at Monte Xanic. You can click on the map below and enlarge it in Flickr. Monte Xanic is number 9 on the map.

Telephone 646 155 20 80
Email info@lajamexico.com
Web http://lajamexico.com/laguito

Barra Azul Ensenada - Fresh Fish In The City

2009-07-26T19:56:00.000-07:00

I’ve been meaning to check out barra azul for quite some time now. Baja Breeze Editor-In-Chief Carla White had suggested I try the Tempura Oysters and that’s all the motivation I needed. Barra Azul feels far removed from the restaurants that line the vibrant tourist zone along Lopez Mateos and provides the perfect setting for a nice relaxing dinner. You can’t really miss the place when you’re passing by with its bright azul paint.

Barra azul specializes in shellfish and fish of the region prepared in a variety of ways. After scanning through the menu my wife and I were undecided on what to try so we left the ordering up to Chef Luis. While we waited for our first course I ordered the tempura oysters Carla had been raving about. The batter carried the perfect amount of crispness while the fresh oysters had a generous yield. The addition of the serrano based salsa and lime was sublime.

What followed the tempura oysters were 5 well-crafted dishes

Ceviche de Camaron
Tuna Tartare
Scallops with orange glaze sesame
Swordfish with sun dried tomatoes, basil and mushrooms
Chocolate Brownie

I love the way the Shrimp Ceviche was prepared in layers, little pillows of shrimp sitting on top of onions, tomato, and avocado with hints of spice.

Another favorite of mine was the Scallops with sesame orange glaze and chili arbol, the bed of arroz con azafran was a nice complement. My wife could not pick a favorite but was oohing and ahhing over the Tuna Tartare. This one had many flavor elements packed into it. Tuna in a honey mustard glaze with layers of strawberries, mango, apple and avocado.

Baby Masa was also very satisfied with simple pasta from the kids menu. It’s so funny because she kept saying “take a picture daddy” ahhhh the life of a food blogger. Most of my favorite restaurants I have reported on in Ensenada serve local seafood but they all have their own unique identities and qualities. Barra azul without question has some unique qualities that will have me coming back for more.

Next week barra azul owner Alain Genchi has an exciting new restaurant opening near 1st and Ruiz called Ultramarino, I believe they will be specializing in Tapas and Botanas so be sure to check it out.

Barra Azul
www.barraazul.com
Calle Once #1090
Entre Espinoza y Puente Centro
Ensenada, B.C. Mex
Closed Tuesdays
Open Fridays and Saturdays 1:30pm to 1130pm
Open Monday Wednesdays Thursdays and Sundays 1:30pm to 10:00pm
(646) 178-4846

Tacos Franc Tijuana - Tacos Al Pastor and more

2009-07-21T19:42:00.000-07:00

A typical day of Tijuana taco hunting usually consist of about 4-5 stops. Out of 5 stops I typically get 1 place I'm inspired to write about. Although Im not on chow.com much these days I finally made it out to Taqueria Franc which I initially found through a post on Chow. I'm kicking myself for not checking this place out before.

Unfortunately Taqueria Franc was the last stop on a June Taco Hunt so needless to say I was pretty stuffed when I rolled up to the bar like seating. Even with all the stops on the Tijuana taco hunt I could not resist the succulent looking Al Pastor. Nothing quite like spit roasted juicy marinated Pork shaved off into a tortilla.

Its especially good when the pork is shaved right into a fresh warm handmade tortilla.

And of course topping the hot crisp pork with some onions, cilantro and rich and creamy guacamole adds a perfect balance of textures and flavors.

The tacos Al Pastor at Tacos Franc have definitely earned a spot on the upper echelons my my tacos list. The flavor of the pork alone is hard to describe, I would love to find out how they marinate the pork. A special blend of chilies, spices, and herbs bring the perfect amount heat while I also detected some sweet infusion.

I feel like I committed a crime not going through some of the other offerings of Suadero, Cabeza, Tripa, Cabeza, Chorizo, Lengua, and Carne Asada. The smell from the Carne Asada over the grill was very tempting. I most certainly will be reporting back when I sample more goods and this will be my first and only stop.

In addition to tacos you cheese fans can order mulitas or quesadillas. Judging from the pictures it looks like they go through mounds of fresh cheese in one night.

The service was very fast and friendly and I would describe the atmosphere as vibrant. Taqueria Franc is conveniently located at the corner of Sanchez Tobado and Miguel Hildago placing it within very close proximity to the Border. They are open from Monday - Thursday 4pm to 1am and Friday and Saturday from 4pm to 4am making it a perfect choice well into the wee hours of the morning. .

If your around the Playas De Tijuana area be sure to check out Tacos El Frances which is affiliated with Tacos Franc. I'm about a month behind on my writing but stay tuned my early July Tijuana Street Food hunt turned out a few gems I hope to report on soon until then Provecho!

La Cocedora De Langosta Ensenada Revisited

2009-07-17T02:21:00.000-07:00

After my last write-up on La Cocedora De Langosta I really wanted to get back and try more of their tasty offerings. I took my brother on a culinary tour of Ensenada and he absolutely loved La Cocedora. I went back to a few of my favorite menu items from my first trip and also tried a few "Chef Specials" that I will cover in this post.

One of the highlights was an outstanding salt cured swordfish salad. Its hard to image something so simple packed with flavor. Fresh crisp lettuce together with soft buttery salt cured swordfish and olive oil. This is one of those things that doesn't look or sound like much on paper but turned out to be one of those dishes your thinking about weeks later.

Sweet meets heat. Fresh Baja scallops with strawberry and Chile Morita, what can I say? A very unique combination that just works so well. Fresh light local scallops cooked to perfection with a smoky sweet strawberry chile morita purée, what a great marriage.

Another chef special that had us talking was a Abalone Sandwich. We took this baby to go but barely took a few steps before it was devoured. This sandwich is a perfect example of what I love about Ensenada. You have some top quality local ingredients coming out of the Valle de Guadalupe combined with some of the freshest seafood from Bajas Coast, what more can you ask for?

I must add the service was exceptional once again and Chef Fabio and the friendly staff at La Cocedora are doing some great things. Go see for yourself. For hours and location please see my original post here.

Tacos El Poblano Tijuana - Carne Asada Perfection

2009-07-08T18:23:00.000-07:00

I have my wife to thank for guiding me to some of my favorite spots in the Tijuana communities of La Mesa and Hipódromo. My wife grew up around the area and when we were dating back in the mid 90s she took me to all the local taquerias. I’ve always loved tacos but this is the period of time that my love was solidified. Recently we decided to go to some of our old favorites most notably Tacos El Poblano.

The owner of El Poblano hails from the small town of Chaucingo Puebla Mexico and established his business in Tijuana back in 1974. The original location was located a few blocks up the street and they upgraded to the new location in 1993. If you travel throughout Baja you may have noticed several different El Poblanos and Los Poblanos. They are all independently owned by different family members so I can only speak for the quality of this original location that started it all.

In a city brimming with taquerias what makes Tacos El Poblano worthy of your hard earned dollar? Over the course of 35 years they have perfected the process. They start with three different cuts of meat, pecho, lomo, and chuleta selected from the owners very own carniceria. The three choice cuts are then coated with a special blend of seasoning. I was fortunate enough to receive a generous amount of the seasoning from the nice owner to try at home. Anyone want to come over for carne asada at the house?

Once seasoned together the blended cuts are grilled over open flames of crackling carbon.

The hot and juicy blended cuts are then placed on a wood block and chopped with a cleaver.

The carne is then nestled inside two griddled corn tortillas and topped with a very fresh salsa fresca and rich guacamole. The guacamole is very tasty and the perfect complement but I asked for no guacamole so the carne asada could be displayed in this photo.

Tacos El Poblano serves up some enticing carne asada tacos, and they are the main purpose I love this place. In addition to carne asada they also have adobada and birria. I have yet to try birria because it is only available in the mornings. If you looking for some crunchy texture you can order a tostadita which basically is a mini tostada with your choice of topping.

Tacos El Poblano is located at 7813 Boulevard Diaz Ordaz in the Tijuana community of La Mesa. If you’re unfamiliar with the city of Tijuana its about a 20 min Taxi ride from the border and well worth it. Those of you from San Diego will be pleased to know the owner plans to expand his operation into San Diego stay tuned.

Churros El Tigre - San Diego Street Food Frenzy

2009-07-01T15:43:00.000-07:00

********Closed*********************

In December of last year I posted some commentary and a YouTube video on some sites about a little churro cart on University Ave in San Diego. Each Time I rolled up to the churro cart I would notice more and more crowds. I soon noticed cars lined up in the alley and people using sign language like some junkies looking for a crack fix.

I knew this would be too good to last, and soon the little churro cart was forced to move. Well, by the time Churros El Tigre was forced to move they achieved a cult following of sorts. I couldn’t believe the flow of emails I started receiving from people including local media trying to get INTEL on the churro man. After many helpful reconnaissance missions by local churro lovers, the crack dealer errrrrr I mean churro specialist has been found sporting a fresh new cart at the corner of Imperial Ave and 25Th.

The churros here rival any I've had south of the border. These are the thin knotted type often times referred to as churritos and sold in a bag of 7. What makes these churros so special? They are soft on the inside, crispy golden brown on the outside and most importantly fried to order. No churros hardening under a heat lamp here. This cake like delicacy of dough and sugary goodness will set you back $2.00.

The process of churro making is quite simple. Fresh Churro dough is squeezed out of the churrera and cut into 6-inch strips before landing in fresh hot oil.

After the dough is fried to golden perfection the excess oil is strained.

Lastly, a sweet cinnamon sugar mix is added.

It's hard to beat hot fried dough right out of the fryer.I recommend you also save room for the Platanos machos fritos. Deep fried large "cooking bananas" (Plantains) cut into ovals, about 1/3-inch thick. Once drained out of the fryer the bananas are topped with Lechera (Sweetened condensed milk) and sugar if you choose.

Churros El Tigre just happens to be walking distance from one of my favorite San Diego spots the "La Fachada Truck". You can sit down outside at La Fachada and enjoy your churros with some some thick, hot, chocolatey champurrado.

Hours of Operation are from 6:30 to 9:00 pm 7 days a week. The exact loaction is 2483 Imperial Ave at 25th St, its directly across from San Diego Police Departments Central Division.

San Diego street food vendors are few and far between dont miss these, and dont blame me if you get addicted.

View Larger Map

Cuban Congri (Arroz Moro) Recipe – Cuban Style Black Beans and White Rice

2009-06-19T22:30:00.000-07:00

We are back again for with some specialties passed down for generations from Cuba. My Mom is from Santiago de Cuba were this special black beans and rice dish is known as Congri. I believe in Havana it’s known as Arroz Morro; in fact my Mom had never heard it termed Arroz Morro until she arrived in the states.

First off, there are three essential requirements to any Cuban dish, plenty of garlic, loud Cuban/Puerto Rican music in the background, and the cook’s favorite pot/pan. The pot Mom uses is very special in the fact that she purchased it in Cuba back in 1962. Mom has used the the pot for the past 47 years exclusively for Congri. The only thing Mom has changed is she now cooks the beans in a pressure cooker to save time.

With Moms special pan, plenty of garlic, and Hector Lavoes “Abuelita” playing in the background we were ready to go.

Ingredients
Serves 8

1 Cup Black Beans
2 Cups White Rice
5 Cups Water
1 lb of Salt Pork
1/2 Orange Pepper
1/2 Yellow Pepper
1/2 Green Pepper
9 Garlic Cloves crushed
1 Onion
2 tbsp Cumin
2 tbsp Olive Oil
Salt to taste

Cook black beans in water (we used 5 cups of water in a pressure cooker, with dry beans it took approximately 20 min).

Roughly chop the peppers and onions. Crush the garlic cloves. Note: The salt pork was purchased already cut.

Add two tablespoons of olive oil to pan and cook salt pork in saucepan over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until pork is golden and crisp, 6 to 8 minutes.

Add onions, bay leaves, bell peppers, garlic and cumin sauté over medium-high heat 3-4 minutes or until onion is tender.

Add rice and stir in.

Add the cooked beans along with the water used to cook them and let sit, do not cover or stir.

After water has absorbed (approx 10 min) reduce heat, stir, and cover the pot. Let simmer 20 minutes or until rice is tender.

Remove from heat and serve. Congri pairs well with pork dishes.

No salt was needed; enough salt was drawn from the salt pork. You will notice many different regional differences to Congri, some recipes I have seen use bacon instead of salt pork. I also have seen tomato and or vinegar used on some Congri recipes. The recipe we have shared has not been changed from the one my Mom learned as a child growing up in Santiago de Cuba, its different flavors and textures all combined make for a mouthwatering dish.

Enjoy!

Cuban Congri

Ensenadas Coastal Oaxacan Restaurant Update

2009-06-19T22:20:00.001-07:00

The Oaxacan restaurant at the Viento development has moved, the owners are now operating out of their beautiful coastal home not far from the old location. My family and I arrived their on a beautiful spring morning and the scenery was breathtaking. This is one of those places that has an immediate tranquil effect on me.

Along with the natural tranquility the hospitality of owners Laura and Chava is unmatched. The beautiful home is decorated with colorful Art collected through Lara and Chavas travels in Mexico.

Previously in the week I had contacted Laura and requested the Mole Negro Tamales we had enjoyed on a prior visit. You can read about the food in my previous post here

We also had some simple quesadillas with Oaxacan cheese and epazote.

Baby masa loves the chorizo here so we ordered a plate for her, and of course we had a to have a few samplings of it.

All and all a great experience, you really can’t beat the setting here, whether its enjoying breakfast with family or on an intimate dinner date. The house is located near the L.A Cetto Boutique off Ensenada Scenic Toll-Highway. If you would like the exact location Laura or Chava would be glad to help you, you may contact them at
(646)1747140 cell (646)1516364 Nextel 152*14*1374.

Fresh Baja Lobster, Clams, and more - La Cocedora De Langosta Ensenada

2009-06-13T20:31:00.001-07:00

Not quite ready to go home after a few wonderful days in Ensenada, the family and I decided to make one last stop at La Cocedora de Langosta. La Cocedora de Langosta had come highly recommended by Chef Benito Molina. The owners of La Cocedora are involved in the local fishing industry and many top restaurants rely on them for top quality lobster, clams, and more.

As I stepped foot inside La Cocedora the first thing that caught my eye, was the amazing geoduck. They have several tanks with live geoduck clams, abalone, and of course lobster.

They also have a selection of various local wines and artisanal products out of the Valle De Guadalupe. A variety of fresh fish is available for purchase in their storefront market.

The restaurant is in a nice quaint setting and the partially open kitchen allows you to watch the chef in action. Fabio, the main chef, has worked with both Benito Molina at Manzanilla and Jair Tellez at Laja.

We were seated quickly by the friendly staff and immediately enjoyed the house salsas. Be careful with the habanero salsa its muy picante. The Menu has an assortment of fresh local seafood prepared in a variety of ways at very reasonable prices.

From the cold menu
Ceviches - Almeja Generosa (Geoduck), Shrimp, Fish, Pismo Clam and Mixed.
Cocktails - Octopus, Shrimp, Almeja Generosa, and Mixed.
Aguachiles - Tuna, Scallops, Shrimp, and Almeja Generosa.
En Su Concha (In their shells) - Pismo Clam, Chocolate Clam, Oysters, and Pata de Mula.
Del Compadre (prepared with red onion, jalapeño, cilantro, and grape seed oil) - Almeja Generosa, Shrimp, Fish, Pismo Clam and Mixed.

Hot Menu
Au gratin style Pismo or Chocolate Clam
Oysters Rockefeller
Steamed Mussels
Lobster

I decided on the Almeja from the hot menu (Au gratin style Pismo clams) and the wife went with a shrimp cocktail. The baked clams were amazing and one of the stars of the weekend. The wife and I almost had a scuffle over them.

My wife enjoyed the cocktail and stated the shrimp was delicious and extremely fresh.

I was going to stop their but did not want to leave without trying something fresh out of the tank. I decided on the Lobster Al Gusto. The lobster comes in several styles; you can order burritos, Puerto Nuevo Style (fried), or Al Gusto (your liking). My Lobster was broiled and topped with some special ingredients. The Lobster was very fresh, juicy, meaty, and accompanied by tortillas, rice, and clam salad. The rice was incredibly delicious and tasted homemade.

La Cocedora is great place for lunch open Tuesday - Sunday 12pm - 5Pm. The fish market portion is opened from 700am - 5pm. The address is Blvd. Teniente Azueta No 187-D Recinto Portuario, Ensenada, B.C., Mexico. Its Located directly across from the fish taco stands that line the Mercado Negro fish market.
Phone (646)178 37 42

Plenty of paid parking is available directly behind La Cocedora, just enter at the lighthouse.

Provecho!!!

The Wine and Culinary Experience in Ensenada Baja California

2009-06-07T20:51:00.000-07:00

I just returned from a great weekend in Ensenada which was highlighted by tasting artisan wine created by a charming and diverse group of up and coming local wine producers. I was fortunate enough to attend at this year’s Guateque wine festival held at the sprawling vineyards of Liceaga in San Antonio de las Minas Ensenada Baja California Mexico.

It was very exciting to sample so many new quality wines by Cruz, Tres Mujures, Enigma, VI, Agosto, and so much more. I was not taking notes but I do remember some of my stand out favorites. One of the stand outs for me was Palabra by Adrian Gonzalez.

Adrian works at Vinos La Contra (Restaurante Del Parque) and has helped me with wine recommendations before, I was not aware Adrian was producing his own wine. It’s very funny because when I ran into Adrian at Guateque I asked him for some recommendations. Adrian threw out a few names and then in a very humble tone asked me if I had tried his wine. It turns out Adrian has produced a fabulous young Zinfandel. I ended up purchasing a bottle of Palabra that I plan on pairing with cochinita pibil. Palabra is available at Vinos La Contra.

Baja wine authority Steve Dryden, who was also in attendance, seemed to be fond of Adrians wine as well. Steve recommended a Tempranillo by Encino that I really enjoyed. I look forward to Steves commentary on this years Guateque event, he did a nice piece on last years. A number of winemakers are also producing beer, which I found interesting. One beer I particularly appreciated was the handcrafted La Nina En Malta Amber by El Parral.

A nice selection of cheese, olive oil, and much more was available for tasting. After grabbing an Ice cold amber beer from El Parral, I hooked up with Javier Martinez from Restaurante Manzanilla; Javier was representing Manzanilla with some delicious handmade sausage on the grill. The natural hog casings were provided by Jay from the Linkery. Thanks Jay!

Grupo Manzanilla also had some very cool shirts available for purchase.

My wife and I were very delighted to see Sabina of La Guerrense showcasing her amazing Mariscos.

La Guerrerenses ceviche tostadas were a hot item, but I preferred some simple cuts of the tender and juicy pulpo (octopus). Sabina just cuts a few pieces and adds chili and lime and I’m set.

Another dish that seemed to be a hit was Caprichos paella, which looked very delicious.

I could not pass up on the cachete (beef cheek) tacos provided by none other than the Plasencia group which runs Tijuanas Villa Saverios, Erizo Cebicheria, Guiseppis, Casa Plasencia and Caffe Saverios. Javier Plascensia will be opening Asador Campestre Saverios,his seasonal Ensenada restaurant, starting July 1st 2009 . Asador Campestre Saverios will is located on the beautiful grounds of Liceaga; I will provide more detail after opening.

I thought I was hallucinating when I heard Pink Floyds “Another Brick in the Wall” being played by the live Norteño band but it was true. I recorded it on video and I will post something up as soon as I fix my video computer. The band was very entertaining.

The grounds of Vina de Liceaga provided a perfect location for the festival. Beautiful large trees lined the festival area. All in all it was a great time with family and friends, and I hope I’m fortunate enough to attend next years Guateque wine festival. It’s an exciting time in Ensenada with more and more wine makers producing excellent wines.

Ensenada Updates

I had a chance to visit Restaurante del Parque which recently changed hands from Jair Tellez to Hugo and Gloria D' Acosta . I will provide a full update soon but I’m pleased to say I had a great dinner on Saturday night. One of my favorite young chefs “Isemene” is still running the kitchen. Isemene whipped up an unforgettable rosemary and honey infused mousse that turned out to be one of the culinary highlights of the weekend. Isemene has worked under the tutelage of both Jair Tellez and Benito Molina.

Benito recommended I try a new restaurant near the Mercado Negro called La Cocedora de Langosta, I have never been disappointment in his recommendations, and I did not hesitate to check it out. It turns out another great young chef Fabio, who also worked with Jair and Benito, is running the kitchen. Fabio made a delicious baked clam I will not soon forget. A full report on La Cocedora de Langosta will be posted in a few days.

The Oaxacan restaurant at Viento has moved. They are now operating out of their beautiful house with breathtaking coastal views. I had breakfast their on Saturday and I did not want to leave. This is another report that will be coming in the next week.

As I stated before it’s a very exciting time in Baja it’s unfortunate the media in the U.S tends to focus on all the negative aspects. I’ve had nothing but positive experiences in Baja.

Mexican White Rice - Arroz Blanco Recipe

2009-06-01T15:04:00.001-07:00

Arroz Blanco can be made in a variety of ways. Some recipes call for peas and carrots however I'm not the biggest fan of peas and carrots so they are not found in this version. I guess my lack of love for the peas stems from childhood. My dad was very firm during dinner time, and we most certainly would never leave the table without finishing our vegetables. Well needless to say we had a very fat cat named PJ who just happened to love peas.

This arroz blanco is very versatile and pairs well with almost any dish. We recently enjoyed this recipe with moms Cuban style lengua de res.

In our recipe green onions and bell peppers are used to bring a nice flavor element, however they are removed prior to serving. Some cooks prefer to chop white onions and blend into the rice.

Ingredients (Makes 8 Servings)
2 Cups of Long Grain White Rice, washed
4 Cups of Water
2 Tablespoons of Olive Oil
2 Tablespoon of Butter
2 Tablespoons Knorr Chicken Bouillon
2 Garlic Cloves, crushed
1/2 Red Bell Pepper
5 Green Onions

Heat oil and butter in pan and stir in the white rice. Stir until the grains are evenly coated and continue to fry over medium heat (approx 5 minutes). Add the onion, crushed garlic, and red bell pepper. Continue frying until just before they turn golden, about 8-10 minutes.

Add water

Add Knoor chicken bouillon.
Bring to a boil; Reduce heat, cover and simmer 15 minutes or until rice is tender and liquid is absorbed.

Set rice aside and keep covered 10 Minutes.

Remove the onions and bellpepper.

Note: The only reason we do not chop the onions and bell pepper finer is the kids prefer the rice plain. We still get the flavor of the onions and bellpeppers and the kids are happy. The onions and bell pepper in the first picture were used for garnish only. Enjoy!

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Mexican White Rice

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Quesadillas De Flor De Calabaza (Squash Blossoms)

2009-05-22T22:41:00.000-07:00

After stopping at a local Mexican drive through window to order my daughter a cheese quesadilla, I got to thinking how difficult it is to get a real quesadilla around these parts. I don’t think my local berto’s will be serving up tuetano con champiñones (marrow and mushrooms), Huitlacoche (corn smut), or Flor de Calabaza quesadillas any time soon. Since its Flor De Calabaza season the wife and I decided to make a trip to San Diegos Hillcrest Farmers Market, and pick up some fresh squash blossom flowers out of Valdivia Farms in Carlsbad.

Flor De Calabaza

I pretty much had the rest of the ingredients at home and currently grow epazote. If you do not have epazote it’s available at the Hillcrest Farmers Market, Specialty Produce, or Northgate Market.

Epazote from the garden

Ingredients
1 1/4 pounds Squash Flowers, cleaned and roughly chopped
2 tablespoons vegetable oil or unsalted butter
3 tablespoons finely chopped white onion
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
Sea salt to taste
2 pablano chilies, charred, peeled, and cut into strips
1 tablespoon roughly chopped epazote
Oaxacan Cheese
Corn Tortillas

This is a fairly simple recipe; most of the work is in the prep. It was a fun day making these; my brother and I were prepping the flowers while the wife worked the grill and the masa. This Recipe is adapted from Diana Kennedys "From My Mexican Kitchen Techniques and Ingredients."

Rinse and briefly shake excess water off the flowers. Remove stringy green sepals around the base of each flower. If the flowers are large leave about a half inch of the stalk on. Roughly chop the flowers, calyx and stamen included.

Prepare chiles by placing over open flame , turning them from time to time until skin is blistered and lightly charred. Place them inside a plastic bag and set aside to steam for 10 about minutes; this process will loosen the skin. Then remove the skin by running your hands or a spoon down the chile. Cut into vertical strips.

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat, add the onion garlic, and a little salt, and fry gently without browning until translucent, about 1 minute. Add the chili strips and cook stirring from time to time, for another two minutes.

Add the flowers and salt to taste, cover the pan, and cook over low heat until the round calyx is tender, not soft, about 10 minutes. Add epazote after 5 minutes.

The mixture should be moist not juicy.

Prepare some corn tortillas on the comal with some Oaxaca cheese and flor de calabaza mixture. Enjoy!

This is enough for about 15 quesadillas (which was a bit much) I will most likely split the recipe in half next time. Its unfortunate as to what is being passed off as a quesadilla locally, flour tortilla the size of a tent with greasy flavorless yellow cheese is not a good representation.

Its flor de calabaza season give them a try I’m sure you will enjoy. If your not up to making them Aqui Es Texcoco in Chula Vista makes some very good ones.

Cuban Style Lengua De Res Recipe - Receta de Lengua De Res Estilo Cubano

2009-05-16T00:41:00.000-07:00

It just so happens my Mom now reads my blog, and of course the question comes up, why no Cuban food? *bows head* You see my Mom was born and raised in Cuba, my Dad is of Mexican decent so I grew up with the fine cuisines from both countries. During special occasions while I was growing up it was all about the Cuban dishes. Cuban Chicken, Fricase de pollo, Congri, Ropa Vieja, Platanos Maduros, and Lengua were the norm.

A funny thing about Lengua is for the longest time I did not know what it was. I really didn't put two and two together until I was about 8 years old. My best friend Kirk and I were rummaging through the cabinets looking for snacks as my mom was just starting the Lengua preparation. This big huge cow tongue was sitting on kitchen counter and we totally freaked out. By that time I loved the dish so much I didn't mind, but I don't think Kirk came over to eat much after that.

This past Mothers day I followed Mom around the kitchen and tried to capture the recipe for you. It was very challenging because Mom does not measure or time anything, so I did my best to capture one of my favorite traditional Cuban dishes.

Ingredients

3-4 lb Beef Tongue
6 Roma Tomatoes or 6-8 ounces of canned of tomato Sauce (Mom prefers the canned tomato sauce)
1 Red Pepper
1 Yellow Pepper
1 Green Pepper
1-2 Onions
1/2 Cup Olives
6 Garlic Cloves, crushed
4 tablespoons Olive Oil
2 teaspoons capers
1 tablespoon caper juice
1 teaspoon cumin
1/2 teaspoon pepper
2 Bay Leaves
2 Tablespoons Vinegar
Salt to taste

Clean the tongue thoroughly and place in pressure cooker with just enough water to cover the tongue. Add one tablespoon of salt, cover, and boil for approximately one hour.

Cut onions and peppers

When tongue is ready, pierce the thickest part with a knife, it should enter easily when the tongue has cooked and should no longer be pink. Peal skin off, trim fat, and cut into 1/2-inch slices.

Saute onions and peppers in 4 tablespoons of olive oil and add 2 teaspoons of salt. Add rest of ingredients listed.

Add tomato sauce

Add slices of tongue and cover on medium heat for 30-45 minutes,season to taste with salt and pepper.

We paired the lengua with arroz blanco (white rice) and Mojitos.

I hope you enjoy this recipe its been passed on for generations in my family.

Cuban Style Lengua de Res Recipe Cuban Style Lengua de Res Recipe Masa Aassassin

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Torta Hunting In Tijuana - Carne Asada Tortas at Wash Mobile Tortas

2009-05-15T19:18:00.001-07:00

Ive been craving a torta (Mexican Sandwich) since Kirks (mmm-yoso) post on San Diegos Torta factory, I have not made it out to The Torta Factory yet but, I recently decided to do some torta hunting in Tijuana.

I had a few places on my Tijuana Torta hit list. Wash Mobile Tortas, Tortas Javier, Tortas Cubanas, and Tortas Ranchito. I had been to Wash Mobile Tortas, Tortas Ranchito, and Torta Cubanas many times in the past, but its been quite some time. Tortas Javier was a place my wife remembered as a child so we decided to check that out as well.

After eating a torta at all of the spots we both agreed the best of the day was Wash Mobile Tortas. Many years ago a car wash co-existed alongside Wash Mobile Tortas, the car wash is long gone but the tortas are still rocking after 45 years!

First off the staff is very friendly, they kept us entertained while we sank our teeth into the messy goodness. The tortas start with some marinated pecho de res (beef brisket). The beef cuts are grilled over glowing hot mesquite coals adding a nice rich, smoky flavor.

The secret behind a good torta is the bread and Wash Mobiles is perfect. The bread is toasted a la plancha, on the griddle, alongside the carne asada. Nice and hot, toasted and crusty on the outside, and soft and doughy on the inside

The beef is then finely chopped and ready to be placed in the sandwich. Their spicy citrus marinade is quite unique and I could not detect all the ingredients. I tried but failed to get the secret.

Mayo is spread on the fresh toasted bread and the carne asada, tomatoes, crushed avocado, red onions, and salsa roja are added. You can dress the torta yourself or order it con-todo.

The final product was very good all the different flavors and textures balanced out perfectly. Part of a my enjoyment eating here is was mingling with the taqueros and locals, Wash Mobile totally represents the Tijuana Experience.If you want more detail on Wash Mobile Tortas I found a cool write-up here.

Wash Mobile is located on Calle Jalisco just west of boulevard Agua Caliente. The hours are from 830pm until they run out of bread (which is usually around 300pm). They serve only Carne Asada Tortas.

For late night Tortas I would recommend Tortas Ranchito. Tortas Ranchito was one of my regular late night spots years ago. Whats funny is this torta spot is also connected to a car wash.

I always get the Torta de Lomo (loin) at Ranchito. The execution of the torta at Ranchitos is very simple. Juicy lomo, soft warm bread, avocado, tomato, and a awesome house made chipotle.

Torta Ranchito is open 24hrs and is located off Calle Salinas right next to Pemex. Its a straight shot from the Grand Hotel de Tijuana. We also hit a Torta Cubana truck and a location on Calle Segunda I will post about in the future. Im sure thier are many great torta spots in the city, if you known of any drop me a line. Tortas Ahogadas, Pambazo,Cemitas. Etc.

Provecho!

Changes at Restaurante Del Parque - Ensenada

2009-05-13T19:19:00.000-07:00

On Sunday Chef/Owner Jair Tellez of Laja dropped me a line informing me that as of last week he and his partners are no longer operating Restaurante Del Parque in Ensenada. Jair and his crew are concentrating their efforts on Laja. Speaking of Laja I’m due for trip soon, I still think of the wonderful pancita risotto I had last time.

UNO Restaurant Tijuana - Cutting Edge Culinary Arts

2009-05-10T06:05:00.000-07:00

It's funny how sometimes you have a great restaurant right under your nose and you don't even know it. Yesterday the wife and I were driving around Tijuana down the street from some property her family has owned for over 30 years when we past a new restaurant that brought me to a screeching halt. The sign that caught my eye "UNO cocina artesanal de vanguardia". I had remembered Chef Benito Molina recommended this place to me a few months ago but we never ironed out the details.

It was very unfortunate that at the time we stopped, we were already stuffed with some tacos from down the street, but that didn't stop us from wanting to try some of Unos fine offerings. Entering the restaurant you are embraced by its casual elegance. Wines showcasing the best of Baja are proudly displayed.

Things started perfect with a nice house red wine, housemade bread and butter, and Rib-eye amuse bouche. For the first course I ordered the queso. The sweetness of the honey blended perfectly with this fine artesanal cheese, I would have been satisfied with just the cheese but we pressed on.

Quesitos con miel de abeja en panal

For course two, we decided to go with the duck stuffed ravioli. 3 ravioli stuffed with duck topped with bacon and pinenuts. At this time I was pretty full but the juicy duck was so good no morsels were spared.

Ravioli de pato en tres

Course three hmmmm???? Well I was going to throw in the towel at this time but some of the menu items sounded so interesting I could not resist. I decided to order a very interesting Rib eye Tartare, this was definitely the highlight of my visit. The presentation on this dish was so nice I just stared at it for a few minutes.

Tartare de Rib eye con emulsion de aceite de oliva

I really wanted to try one of the main courses but It was just not possible after the days events. I skipped the main course and ordered some dessert to share with the family and it was on par with the rest of my meal, divine.

Opera Deco

The service here was outstanding, when we were finished with our meal the chefs were kind enough to come out and chat with us. It turns out Chefs Ricardo Hiroshi Uno and Diego Hernandez Velasco worked with Chef Benito Molina for years at the old Manzanilla Resturant in Ensenada. They were kind enough to take me on a tour and I was excited to see they have a custom underground pit in the back for traditional Barbacoa De Borrego, slow-cooked lamb over an open fire. The mesquite grill was also very cool to see.

I'm definitely coming back soon to get beyond the appetizers and desserts, I'm particularly interested in the lamb. UNO is located very close to Agua Caliente Racetrack about a 15 min ride from the border.

Av. de Las Ferias #5202, Col. del Bosque C.P. 22o34 Tijuana, B.C Mexico.
Reservations (664) 681.3203

Tacos El Mazateno Tijuana - Camarones Enchilado (Spicy Shrimp Tacos)

2009-05-09T21:46:00.000-07:00

In March the Committee of Tijuana Tourism published a list of 120 things to do in Tijuana and I realized their was one place on the list of suggested eateries I had yet to try...... "Tacos El Mazateno"

Tacos El Mazateno is located close to the Otay Area of Tijuana and is about a 25 minute taxi ride from the Border. I paid 8 bucks for the ride from a Taxi Economico and it was well worth the trip. Stepping out of the taxi and into Mazateno I felt like I was transported to Mazatlan. The place reminded me so much of the open air restaurants in Sinaloa minus the ocean air.

Mazateno is always live and bustling, on any given day its not uncommon to see hundreds of local diners in the place. You have a choice to eat at the stand on the corner or sit down at one of the many tables. As you are seated you are brought a bag of some tostaditas, salsa fresca, limes, cabbage, and consommé.

Tacos El Mazateno specializes in Mariscos and they are best known for their spicy shrimp taco (Camaron Enchilado). Generous amounts of succulent, plump, spicy shrimp placed on top melted cheese folded in two crisp light tortillas. This honestly is one of my favorite tacos and it will blow your mind.

The shrimp ceviche is also a hit, and I'm sure anything you try here is going to be amazing.

Ive met some friendly locals here enjoying these treasures in the masses, many of them also recommend the soups from the menu, but usually I'm so full from the Camarones Enchilado tacos I have no room to spare, perhaps next time. These tacos are some of the best Mariscos tacos I have had and I highly recommend this place.

El Mazateno is opened 7am to 7pm seven days a week and is located at Calzada Tecnologico (Corner of Technologico and Popotla) NO.473 Tomas Aquino Tijuana, B.C. Mexico. Most taxi drivers can guide you here.

Provecho!

Pastel Tres Leches - Tres Leches Cake Recipe

2009-05-03T16:50:00.000-07:00

Pastel Tres Leches (Three-Milk Cake) is a wonderful dense, moist cake topped with vanilla whipped cream. What makes it unique is that after baked, it is perforated and soaked in a mixture of three different milk products. The three milks, when combined, create a distinct texture. I personally like it with an orange flavor to it, the tang of the orange cuts some of the sweetness providing the perfect balance.

Although very popular in Mexico this dessert is enjoyed throughout Latin American. You will find variances in recipes from Mexico, Cuba, Nicaragua, Puerto Rico, Panama, Guatemala, and Costa Rica. Tres leches cakes come in a wide array of presentations and flavor profiles. Here is our version we have enjoyed over the years, taking some traditional ingredients and adding some new.

Ingredients
5 eggs
1/2 cup unsalted butter
1 cup white sugar
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
Dash of cinnamon
Dash of grated orange peel
2 Tbsp of Grand Marnier Liqueur

2 cups whole milk
1 (14 ounce) can sweetened condensed milk
1 (12 fluid ounce) can evaporated fat free milk
1 1/2 cups heavy whipping cream
1/2 cup white sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
Sift flour and baking powder together and set aside.
Cream butter and 1 cup sugar together until fluffy.
Add eggs and the 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract; beat well.
Add the flour mixture to the butter mixture 2 tablespoons at a time; mix until well blended. Grease and flour baking pan, pour batter into prepared pan.
Bake at 350 degrees F for 30 minutes.

Combine the whole milk, condensed milk, and evaporated milk together. Add a dash of cinnamon, dash of grated orange peel, and 2 tbps of Grand Marnier Liqueur.
Pierce entire cake with toothpicks.
Pour over the top of the cooled cake.
Let cake absorb all the liquid.
Note: We actually refrigerate overnight and let cake absorb leches.

Whip the heavy whipping cream until it beads and add 1/2 cup white sugar, and 1 teaspoon vanilla together until thick. Spread over the top of cake.
Be sure and keep cake refrigerated and serve it well-chilled. Garnish with strawberries and mint. Provecho!

No "The Masa Assassin" isn't going Martha Stewart on you, I just wanted to share a traditional dessert that we are accustom to making in my household. I'm still tweaking my Tijuana Taco Diaries and its back to the Masa soon. We have been working in the kitchen making a variety of quesadillas including Flor De Calabaza (Squash Blossom) with epazote.

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Pastel Tres Leches Masa Assassin Pastel Tres Leches Masa Assassin Masa Aassassin

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Birria De Chivo Recipe - Goat Stew

2009-04-26T00:20:00.000-07:00

I've really been craving some Birria de Chivo lately, especially after having a delicious bowl of it a few weeks ago at one of my favorite spots in Los Angeles. While reading the latest version of San Diego’s El Latino paper, I noticed an add from Talones Meat Market in Escondido. The Talones add was calling my name with the word "CHIVOS".

The wife and I made a quick trip to Talones and we were pleased to find the goat was not frozen like most places. We ordered 4lbs and had it cut in cubes, we also ordered 1 goat head (cabeza). The wife likes using head in the stew to add a different element to the broth. We made a quick trip to Northgate Market for the essentials then it was back to the kitchen. We slapped 1/4 cup of vinegar on the goat meat and let it soak overnight. The next morning we were ready to go.

This recipe is for the guisado stew form which happens to be my favorite. Another popular method of cooking birria is called tatemada; tatemada employs the two-step form of stovetop steaming followed by oven roasting. You can also use a variety of different meats, goat is my favorite choice.

Ingredients

4 lbs Goat Meat
1 Goat Head (Cabeza) *Optional
5 Guajillo Chiles
5 Ancho Chiles
3 Cascabel Chiles
10 California Chiles (We typically use 12 Cascabel and no California Chiles but we had to tame it down for the family)
1 teaspoon oregano
1 teaspoon pepper
1/4 teaspoon cloves
1/4 teaspoon cumin
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground thyme
5 whole Allspice
10 garlic cloves
3 bay leaves
1 onion
Salt to taste
1/4 cup Vinegar
1 cup of water

Sides
Oregano
1 cup chopped onion
1 cup chopped cilantro
Radishes
Limes
Corn Tortillas

Remove the seeds and veins from the chiles and toast.

Put the chiles to soak in 1 cup of hot water for approximately 20 minutes, and then add the rest of the ingredients with exception of onion and bay leaves.

Seal in juices by searing the goat meat. We also seared the cabeza in a separate pan not shown.

Blend ingredients to a smooth sauce.

Place seared goat meat in a pot, and put just enough water in the pot to cover the meat.

Add onion and bay leaves.

Immediately strain chile paste into the pot.

Place the lid on the pot and let simmer on low heat until the meat is "fall off the bone" tender. Add salt as needed. Our meat took approximately four hours before it was cooked to perfection. As part of the final process the fat and bones were removed. During the time I was anxiously awaiting for the birria, the smell permeating through the air was intoxicating. I have to admit I lifted the lid and sampled a few tender morsels more than once.

I had to keep myself busy and out of temptation so I decided to prepare the essential sides of chopped onions, cilantro, oregano, lime, and radishes. The wife was working on something more special an incredible chile de arbol based salsa with garlic and tomatillo. The salsa will be featured on a future write-up. The sides were ready to for the main course, and the tortillas were dipped in the delicious broth.

This particular Birria De Chivo turned out to be one of the most memorable Birrias I have had, I would not change a thing. The broth turned out to be complex with the perfect amount of spice. Birria De Res is a dish we make frequently in the house but now that we have a source for fresh goat, its all about the Birria De Chivo.

Enjoy the receta de birria de chivo.

Stay tuned.....
May will be Masa Month we will be featuring Masa Based Antojitos and also some major taco hunting I've done the past year in the streets of Tijuana.

Villa Saverios Tijuana- A Touch of Tuscany

2009-04-18T16:03:00.000-07:00

Craving some pasta on a beautiful spring day the family and I decided on a midday trek to one of our favorite fine dining destinations in Tijuana, Villa Saverios. Just a 10 minute ride from the border and located in what is known as Tijuana’s Gastronomic District, Villa Saverios has an extensive menu combining the culinary influences from Italy, France, Spain, and the Mediterranean with the best local seafood and ingredients Baja has to offer.

As we walked past some spring flowers outside Saverios, my Daughter picked a flower which turned out to be the perfect table centerpiece, creating an intresting color scheme with the crisp white linen table cloth and cherries.

Meal service is formal and vigilant, with each table receiving the care of 3-4 friendly and knowledgeable staff members. Browsing through the extensive list of cold and hot appetizers, we decided on the Antipasto Saverios, a nice blend of prosciutto ham, Spanish chorizo, pecorino, manchego cheese, marinated olives, and Sicilian caponata. Note: Do not the miss the Mesquite grilled oysters when they are available.

After enjoying the appetizers we decided to order the Spaghetti frutti de mare a delicious dish consisting of shrimp, clams, baby octopus, mussels and calamari in a tomato and saffron sauce, drizzled with local extra virgin olive oil . I have never been disappointed with the exceptional pastas at Villa Saverios and this was no exception. The spaghetti was cooked to perfection and fused perfectly with the local Baja catch. We paired the spaghetti with a nice Nebbiolo from the Valle de Guadalupe.

Not being able to decide on one dessert we opted for something new Saverios offers “Degustación de Postres” a sampling of blackberry tart, mocha éclair, mango and cheese, crème brûlée, and chocolate aztec cake. The chocolate aztec cake is a very interesting blend of Mexican chocolate infused with chili pasilla.

Villa Saverios also has a very nice bar area with great ambiance; the walls around the bar are adorned with local art. If you’re looking to throw a private party they have a huge banquet room upstairs and private wine cellar dining available. If you would like to learn more about Villa Saverios and Bajas gastronomic movement Gourmet Magazine wrote a detailed article back in March of 2007, the article also outlines most of the restaurants I have recently covered in Ensenada.

Villa Saverios
Blvd. Sanchez Taboada
Esq. Escuadron 201
22320 Zona Rio Tijuana
http://www.villasaverios.com

Provecho!

Stuffed Cactus In Batter - Nopales Rellenos y Rebozados

2009-04-11T06:38:00.000-07:00

Well it’s not every weekend I get out for culinary excursions in Baja, so this week I decided to cover what goes on in my Kitchen. I was craving some Nopales and my wife decided to make some incredible Stuffed Nopales in Batter.

Ingredients:

6 prickly pear cactus paddles, cleaned
Oaxacan string cheese (quesillo)
4 eggs (separated)
Vegetable Oil
Salt to taste
Salsa
Crema

Preparation:

Clean and select Nopales, try to pair similar sizes preferably small.

Place thin slices of cheese on one nopal and cover with a second one, basically making a sandwich.

Secure the nopal and cheese with toothpicks

Beat egg whites until they form stiff peaks; gradually beat in salt and yolks.

Heat the oil in a large skillet until a few drops of water sprinkled into it bounce around. Dip the stuffed nopales in the egg batter to coat.

Fry in the hot oil until golden brown on each side.

Drain on paper towels.

Top with Salsa of choice, optional Crema and serve. The salsa we use is green tomato and chile de arbol based.

Some people add flour to the nopal but we feel with the texture of the nopal it is not required, the batter sticks to the nopal just fine. We also prefer the nopal to be dipped in the batter raw; some may want to boil the nopal. The type of cheese you use can vary.

Sometimes you don’t have to go far for a great meal, I just feel lucky to have such a great cook in the kitchen. This post is also a tribute to my chowhound buddy EatNopales who eats nopales without removing the thorns!

Giant Oysters (Oyster Huaraches), La Guerrense Ensenada Representing, The Linkery San Diego Gourmet Mexi-Dogs, and News and Notes.

2009-04-08T19:41:00.000-07:00

I didn’t realize how difficult it is to come up with post titles that summarize multiple topics. I’m trying to take a page out of local San Diego based uberblogger Kirk Ks book. Kirks blog mmm-yoso was actually one of the main inspirations for me to start this blogging madness.

I was first intrigued by Oyster Huaraches (Giant Oysters) based on discussion by friends and fellow Chowhounders streetgourmetla and kare raisu who were led to La Guerrerense by chef Benito Molino. Upon subsequent visits to La Guerrerense the giant oysters were not available; however the nice owner Sabina did promise she would deliver soon. On my most recent visit the oysters were finally available but nothing could have prepared me for the size of these things.

On another note La Guerrerense has received well deserved national media coverage. Sabina informed me that National Geographic recently filmed some extensive coverage of the cart; I will post up the coverage as soon as it’s available. Sometimes La Guerrerense proudly displays their past media coverage on the cart, I was happy to see my humble blog post on display amongst the media coverage.

I was also pleasantly surprised by a post I read by The Linkery Restaurant in San Diego. The post referenced my write up on the history of Mexicos bacon wrapped Hot Dog and highlighted a possible special menu item. The Linkerys take on the Mexi-Dog , 100% pastured beef, wrapped in hand made bacon smoked over California Red Oak, and in a house baked semolina bun. Of course, as soon as I read about this tantalizing creation, I had to drive straight down to The Linkery and try one out myself(Thanks Jay good stuff).

I’m still preparing to cover the San Diego Mexican Cuisine scene and also have decided to include coverage of Mexican Regional Cuisine from my kitchen. I’m no Chef but my wife is a great cook specializing in Mexican Regional Cuisine. Stay Tuned…...

Carnitas Hermanos Ramirez Ensenada - Carnitas Estilo Guanajuato

2009-04-04T07:25:00.000-07:00

My morning meals on the weekend typically consist of Birria, Pozole, or Menudo, and usually on my way to Ensenada I stop in South San Diego or Tijuana for my fix. Last weekend, having skipped an early breakfast, I rolled into Ensenada around 9:30am with my crew (wife and junior masa). As we passed the corner of 2nd and Riveroll the musky scent of carnitas cutting through the air was so inviting. The scent was coming from Carnitas Hermanos Ramirez, and we decided to stop and join the local crowd.

In Mexico no portion of the pig goes to waste, you can order anything from snout to tail and some of the prized parts move fast. As we approached the counter the wife ordered a surtido taco and I ordered a buche taco. Surtido is a mix of the different parts of the pig and Buche is pig esophagus . If you are unfamiliar with ordering carnitas in this fashion just point to the body part. If you’re unsure on what to order start with Maciza which is simply lean boneless meat.

The pork here has spent hours slowly simmering in lard inside a huge cazo transforming it into mouthwatering deep golden brown carnitas.

After you have chosen your part, a friendly taquera will pull the pork from the cazo and proceed to carve with the expertise of a Master Butcher. The staff here is very friendly and knowledgeable.

Pata - Pigs Feet

Once the taquera has placed the warm carnitas inside the tortilla it’s time to dress it. Hnos Ramirez offers an assortment of fresh salsas, onions, and cilantro to choose from.

You can also take a piece of the complimentary Chicharrón (deep fried pork skin).

The Buche and Surtido we ordered were perfect, in fact it’s so hard for me to look at this without getting hungry. We ordered a few other varieties but they were consumed before I could snap a photo. :P

Surtido

Buche

I had a chance to meet the friendly owner Alfonso Ramirez who stated he goes through about three cazos of pig a day. In 1998 Alfonso introduced the traditional cooking methods from his hometown of Salamanca Guanajuato Mexico to Ensenada.

Located at the corner of 2nd and Riveroll Hermanos Ramirez is open 7 days a week from 800am-4pm. Carnitas enthusiast will usually figure out when their favorite parts are available and order oreja(ears),trompa (snout), nana (uterus) or any variety of exotic combos. You can also order a kilo and make your own tacos. While I’m in Ensenada it’s usually all about eating the fresh local seafood, but now I have added some succulent carnitas into the rotation, it’s just too good to resist.

Restaurante Manzanilla Ensenada – The forefront of Baja Californias Gastronomic Movement

2009-03-29T16:42:00.000-07:00

Manzanilla represents the best of Baja’s Gastronomic Movement. Fresh local seafood combined with the best local and regional ingredients and food products prepared in innovative fashion. Combine the artistically crafted dishes created by Chef/Owner Benito Molina with some of the best wine offerings coming out of Ensenada’s Valle de Guadalupe and you can see why Manzanilla has fast become the place to be for food and wine lovers.

One thing I have noticed in my travels is things happen later in Mexico, for example, it is not uncommon to find people going out to dinner after 8 or 9pm. On a typical late Saturday evening you will find Manzanilla filled with a lively, upbeat and friendly crowd in a vibrant yet relaxed, cozy setting. Every time I’m inside Manzanilla I feel totally immersed in the environment. The focal point of the decor is a magnificent wood bar. The Art is selected by Benito and features local Mexican artists. The dining area is still evolving, however Manzanilla has already developed great character.

On my most recent visit I was greeted by the always welcoming and gracious Javier Martinez. Javier runs Manzanilla with Chef Benito Molina and Benitos wife Solange Muris who is also a chef. The menu focuses on local, seasonal produce, fresh seafood, regional meats, and artisan cheeses. The value at Manzanilla is exceptional with entrees averaging 175MN or $12.00USD at the current exchange rate. I normally put myself in the chef's hands and leave the ordering up to them, this allows them to showcase the full range of their talents and creativity and choose from the best available products on the day. Some highlights of my past visits are....

Calamares Manches a perfect blend of squid, beets, herbs and spices.

The Risottos here are amongst my favorite dishes at Manzanilla. Pictured is the Risotto de Mar perfectly prepared creamy risotto blended with various local seafood and cheeses topped with yellowtail and babysquid.

I'm at loss for words for the aged Sonoran Rib Eye steak, I will let the picture do the talking.

Every time I have had a Tiradito de Pescado I have been suprised with a new flavor combo. I would have to say this combination was the best. Light, sweet, and somewhat briny flavor of the Sea Urchin complemented by the rich, tender, and buttery Toro (Tuna Belly), whats not to love?

I love hearing a story behind my meal and one thing that's great about Manzanilla is chances are someone in the dining room was involved with your meal in one way or another. A few weeks ago I met the purveyor of the oysters. The wonderful oysters I had that night were Japanese Kumamoto Oysters pulled from San Quentin Baja. The little plump guys were firm but yielding, creamy, buttery, and sweet. Kiss the Sea.

Save room for dessert they have a choice of Chocolate Souffle, Creme brulee, and Mousse of the day. The wonderful Cascada de Chocolate (Chocolate Souffle) is my guilty pleasure.

This weekend I was delighted to try a new creation by Señor Molina, Thinly sliced Deer laced with fennel from the garden outside, and Yucatan chilimole sauce, all I can say is WOW. Come experience the Culinary Movement in Baja, the possibilities are endless.

Manzanilla is Located at Teniete Azueta 139, Ensenada Baja California Mexico.The Restaurant is across from the shipyard, currently the Black Pearl (the ship from Pirates of the Caribbean) is anchored. The hours are from Wednesday to Saturday 1pm to 1 am. The Phone number is (646 175 70 73) From U.S Dial 011 52 646 175 70 73

Saludos!

Other sources for Manzanilla
http://www.bajatimes.com/articlesDetail.asp?sid=1794
http://www.gourmet.com/magazine/2000s/2007/03/nextmex
http://www.bajalife.com/bordercrossing/diningfoodstands.html
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/585161

A Short History On Mexicos Bacon Wrapped Hot Dog

2009-03-22T00:09:00.000-07:00

The Hot Dog was first introduced to Mexico in the 1943 by a couple of American entrepreneurs who purchased a concession stand at the Plaza Mexico City bull ring. The entrepreneurs figured Hot Dogs were such a hit with baseball fans in America, they should be just as popular with bullfight fans in Mexico.

It is believed the bacon wrapped Hot Dog with all the trimmings began to appear in 1956. An unidentified Hot Dog cart in Mexico City's Parque de la Alameda began serving bacon wrapped dogs to employees of the newly constructed Torre Latinoamericana. At the time Torre Latinoamericana was then the tallest building in Latin America, and the fourth in height in the world outside New York.

Today you will find the Hot Dog all over Mexico, depending on the region you will see variances on the types of trimmings used and what the dog is called. In California I often hear the bacon wrapped Hot Dog being referred to as a TJ Dog, Tijuana Hot Dog, Street Dog, Dangerous Dog, and Dirty Dog.

I remember in Mexico back in the eighties sinking my teeth into my first bacon wrapped Hot Dog. Crisp thin bacon wrapped around a sizzling Hot Dog, nestled inside a pillow soft steamed bun, topped with ketchup, mayo, mustard, fresh chopped tomatoes, chopped onions, chopped grilled onions, chile on the side, and paired with ice cold Mexican Coke in a glass bottle, sheer heaven!

If you have never had a bacon wrapped Hot Dog the execution is fairly simple. The Hot Dog itself is pretty basic, what really makes it special is the combination of toppings. The carts I frequent use Rosarita brand Hot Dogs and thin sliced bacon. Buns are usually Bimbo brand and should always be steamed. I have seen some vendors in U.S. grill the buns to a crisp but in my opinion the crisp texture should be provided by the bacon not the bun. It’s a matter of personal preference but cheese, or anything other then the essentials I described do not belong in the mix.

One of my favorite spots that has perfected the classic as I described is located in Ensenada just stumbling distant from Hussongs Cantina at the corner of 2nd and Ruiz. The cart is run by Yolanda, who has been serving up savory bacon wrapped Hot Dogs for 14 years.

This is a quick clip if you want to see the sequence

In the United States my favorite rendition of the bacon wrapped Hot Dog is without a doubt the Sonoran Hot Dog available at hundreds of stands in Tucson. The big difference in the Sonoran dog is the bread. The Sonoran Hot Dog is encased in a roll-like bread. The toppings are basically the same as I described above with an addition of jalapeño purée and beans. Some better known stands I usually hit in Tucson are Guero Canelo and BK Hotdogs.

Some spots in Tucson even pair each Hot Dog with a bacon wrapped Chile Guero.

So what about my hometown of San Diego? Well San Diego street vendors are virtually non existent, and the sit down places I have tried fall a little short(Sorry Lucha). Los Angeles has some great street vendors however its interesting now because the city has declared an all out war on bacon (See Video). Bacon is a potentially hazardous food,” says Terrence Powell of the LA County Health Department. I Guess it’s so good its illegal! Unless Baja bans bacon you will find me in Ensenada at the corner of 2nd and Ruiz. Where is your favorite spot?

Midweek Ramblings- Viagra Cocktail, Chorizo de abulón, Fruit Salad and more

2009-03-18T09:12:00.000-07:00

I have been shooting food pics with point-and-shoot cameras for years now and decided to take my hobby to the next level with a Digital SLR. Yes I took the plunge and bought myself a Nikon D40.

I'm experiencing a learning curve but I hope to improve the quality of the images on my blog. One thing I'm adjusting to is the size difference. Trust me its not easy breaking out a D40 at a taco stand in Tijuana and clicking away.

I will still be using some archived images from my old camera, but you should gradually see a difference in picture quality. I have been using the camera for a few days now and here are some of the highlights.

"Viagra Cocktail" taken at a local San Diego taco truck.

Sope de Chorizo de abulón - La Querencia Tijuana

Fruit Salad - Frutilandia San Diego

Speaking of San Diego......
Lately I have tossed the idea around on including San Diegos Mex food scene on this site. I'm leaning towards including San Diego, I just don't know when and how. What are my issues on the decision? I have been active on San Diego food based Message Boards and Review Sites for a few years now, and I just don't feel comfortable using a copy and paste method of my past contributions. I would like to highlight the places I frequented in the past and also bring in a fresh new perspective.

In Ensenada news this week....

Degustation, food and wine tasting Spring Festival at Restaurante Del Parque and adjoining wine shop La Contra. Saturday March 21 2009 - 5:00pm - 8:30pm. See the banner below for more info.
Reservations: vinoslacontra@gmail.com
Tel. (646)178.8213 / (646)156.5260

Tacos El Fenix - Fish Tacos Ensenada Style

2009-03-13T13:45:00.000-07:00

The Fish Taco Estilo Ensenada

Crunchy, sizzling hot strips of batter-fried angelito shark, folded into warm corn tortillas, topped with shredded cabbage and a squeeze of lime, sprinkled with fresh Pico de gallo and finished with a splash of salsa and thick creama.

Back in October I scoured the town of Ensenada looking for the perfect fish taco. I hit dozens of different fish taco stands over a few weeks, taking a few for the team along the way. Many locals directed me to Tacos El Fenix, a place I had already frequented for years. Did I find the perfect Fish taco? I’m not sure, but Tacos El Fenix still stands as my favorite fish taco spot in Ensenada.

The key to a great fish taco starts with the ingredients in the batter. I’ve tried many times to get the batter recipe at Fenix, but alas I have failed to obtain this deeply guarded family secret recipe. I noticed the color to be deep golden brown and laced with what appears to be oregano.

The fresh fish found beneath the amazing fried batter is angelito shark (Angel Shark).

Angelito shark ready for tacos at the fish market.

The angelito shark is dipped in the seasoned batter and double fried. I wish I had one of these cooking units at home. I get conflicting information on the exact name of the pan, but I hope to get clarification on it soon. I'm looking to purchase the disc shaped unit on my next trip to Ensenada, now if I could just nail the batter recipe. Tasty plump shrimp tacos are also availible at El Fenix.

Unlike most fish taco establishments in the U.S. the fish taco comes naked, its up to you to dress it according to your taste. I typically order one at a time ensuring the taco is consumed within seconds after frying.

I will always have love for the classic Ensenada fish taco experience, and Fenix does it right. Tacos El Fenix is located on the corner of Espinosa and Juarez (Calle 5). Hours of operation are 7am - 9pm 7 days a week.

Restaurante Del Parque - Ensenada

2009-03-09T13:51:00.001-07:00

***** Note 5/4/09 Chef owner Jair Tellez is no longer operating Restaurante Del Parque. Jair is concentrating on Laja. No information yet on if someone else is taking over taking over.*****

Restaurante Del Parque was opened up several months ago by Jair Tellez chef/owner of Laja. The entrance to the restaurant showcases an unrivaled assortment of Bajas best wines. Browsing the boutique, named La Contra, you can find everything from the house wine to a 2235 peso Balache.

The charming outdoor setting, complete with wood fired oven takes full advantage of Ensenadas Mediterranean like weather. Much like Laja, the menu at RDP revolves around seasonal and local ingredients. One menu item that has been available on all four of my visits is the Chamorro de puerco al horno (Slow Cooked Pork Shank) . The pork is so "fall of the bone" tender no knife is needed.

Another stand out for me is the Cachete de res en su jugo con purée de papas( Braised cow cheek au jus with potato purée).

What I love about both Laja and RDP is the use of impeccably fresh ingredients. Something as simple as sausage or stir fried vegetables takes on new heights.

Chorizo caseros al horno

Vegetales Salteados con ajo tierno

They're choices for everyone, pastas, salads, meats, fish, and pizzas. Many of the dishes along with the pizzas are cooked in the wood fired oven. My daughter is a big fan of the cheese pizza. She also loves to roam around the "park like" outdoor setting.

Restaurante Del Parque is perfect for a nice family dinner, intimate date, or if you just want to enjoy some local chesse and wine with friends. Restaurante Del Parque is located on corner of 6th Street and Moctezuma, Moctezuma #623.

Hours are 1-11pm Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Sundays they are opened from 1pm to 6pm and Tuesdays they are closed.
(646) 178-8587

Source
http://thelinkery.com/blog/?s=laja

Baja California Dreaming

2009-03-04T17:40:00.000-08:00

Last night I found myself tossing and turning thinking of some great dishes I had on Sunday. So what was the main subject of my dreams? A Tiradito De Pescado from Restaurante Manzanilla consisting of two things I love,Toro and Erizo (Fatty tuna belly and Sea Urchin). The light, sweet, and somewhat briny flavor of the Sea Urchin was a perfect complement to the rich, tender, and buttery Toro.Restaurante Manzanilla is one of my favorite spots in Baja and a full report is coming soon.

Also from Restaurante Manzanilla some spectacular Japanese Kumomoto Oysters pulled from San Quentin. Delicate, plump, buttery perfection.
Meximoto

From my favorite street cart "La Guerrerense" I had some Guerrero Negro Callo(Scallops) dressed with chili, lime, sea salt, red onions, and cucumbers. This was amazing!

Sweet Dreams

Tacos Fitos Tijuana - Blazing the Birria de Res

2009-03-01T21:00:00.000-08:00

On my way to Ensenada this weekend I stopped at Fitos Tacos in Tijuana for my ritual morning snack of Birria de Res (Beef slow-Braised in rich chile rub). There are many two-wheeled tented vendor kitchens in the city but this one works wonders.

The menu is fairly simple at Fitos. You can choose Tacos Birria de Res,Tacos Tripa de Res, or Birria consommé. The tacos here are top notch. Corn tortillas are crisped over the grill and dipped in the juices from the birria. The juicy beef is chopped up, and the broth and salsa is then ladled over the beef and garnished with chopped onion and cilantro. Squeeze some lime, lean over and enjoy.

My favorite thing to order is "campechana", which is a mix of tripa and birria . If you never tried this mix its wonderful. The crispness of the tripa married with the tender juicy Birria is a sheer delight. Something else that’s a delight is watching the assembly of your taco. The taquero masters here will blow your mind with their efficiency. Words cant describe this so I put together a video of the taco mastery. Note:This video was not sped up.

I cant thank streetgourmetla enough for guiding me to this place. Tacos Fitos is opened from 5:30am to 1:30pm 7 days a week. It’s located just 5 min from the border at Fransisco Javier Mina #14 Zona Rio. Fitos is next to Tacos El Gordo and directly across from Mercado Hildago. Mercado Hildago is an amazing central market which I will cover soon.

Here is another source of info I found this guy is great!
http://www.ericrench.com/MEXICO/TIJUANA/FOOD/RIO/FITOS/index.htm
More sources
http://www.bajalife.com/bordercrossing/diningfoodstands.html
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/519629

Las Ahumaderas Tijuana - Tacos, Vampiros, Pelliscadas, and more

2009-02-22T03:31:00.001-08:00

Founded back in 1960 Las Ahumaderas is a series of six taquerías, all linked together. Tacos El Paisa, Tacos Los Paisas, Tacos El Paisano, Las Quince Letras, and Las Tres Salsas. With all the different mesquite grilled meats, the billows of smoke permeating through the street can be intoxicating. Grab a seat at a counter and soak in the vibe.

Besides the usual tacos, tortas, gorditas, mulitas, quesadillas you can order some interesting menu items such as Pelliscadas and Vampiros (Vampires).

On a recent trip I grabbed a stool at Tres Salsas and ordered the Chorizo Pelliscada. The taquera grabbed a slab of masa from a huge masa-mound and started forming the shape. The masa was then placed on the comal and cheese was spread on top. She then covered it with a bowl for a minute or so until it was perfectly formed . The taquero took the soft warm masa and topped it with guacamole, chorizo, onion ,cilantro, and a dash of smokey salsa roja. The end result resembled a huge sope, and it was pretty filling.

Curious about Vampiros? On a Vampiro the tortillas are griddled, dried out and start taking a form of their own. Here is a bowl of them ready to go at Quince Letras

Vampiros are similar to a tostada but the shells are more firm, hold more, and don't fall apart when you bite into them. I ordered mine with Carne Asada con todo. Melted cheese, carne asada, salsa, cilantro, onions, and guacamole. I don’t think I will be replacing my tacos with Vampiros, however they are definitely worth checking out.

I've had some very good adobada tacos at El Paisa and Las Tres Salsas. The adobada at both locations was spiced, sweet, juicy, and packed with flavor

I have also had some very good house made chorizo at El Paisa. The chorizo was topped with guacamole, the guacamole was subtle and complimented the spice of the chorizo well.

The tacos are only 12 pesos, at the current exchange rate that's a whopping 81 cents!!!! Prices are painted on the wall at all the stands.

They have live entertainment at night and a good variety of antojitos to choose from. I've had better tacos on my city wide taco quest, but if you hit the right spots at Las Ahumaderas you will get some pretty good stuff, and some entertainment.

One thing I like about Las Ahumaderas besides the variety is the hours. Las Ahumaderas seems to never close, on my next trip I will get the exact hours and report back. Las Ahumaderas is located at Gob Balarezo and Agua Caliente Boulevard(The Blvd). Just follow the billows of smoke.

If you want to see the video action of the making of a Pelliscada you can watch here.....

Muelle Tres Ensenada - The Pearl of The Malecón

2009-02-13T07:14:00.000-08:00

Sunday I spent a great day absorbing the sites, sounds, and taste of Ensenada. After taking a nice stroll on the boardwalk, I met up with chef-owner Benito Molina and his family at their casual waterfront restaurant.This was my second time at Muelle Tres and I'm still kicking myself for not discovering this gem earlier.

I was still dreaming of some of the dishes I had on my first try, particularly the Almohaditas de camarón. Almohaditas de camarón simply translates to “Pillows of Shrimp”, a delicate pastry like delicacy stuffed with succulent shrimp and cheese.

I left the ordering up to Benito and I was pleased that he ordered another dish I enjoyed on my first visit, the Mejillones al vapor en 6 chiles. The fresh, meaty, and juicy mussels are served at your table in a steamy pot complimented with tomatillo.

The Tiradito de Pescado was a pleasant surprise. Succulent sashimi style buttery soft fish married with chili powder, red wine, olive oil, ginger, rice vinegar and serrano chiles.
Exquisite!

The local Oysters are so good, they were meant to eat as is

I remember a fantastic Ceviche de Almeja (Clam Ceviche), but after a few good bottles of wine my details are blurred a bit. As with any Benito run establishment, the choice of local Baja wines is great.

Admiring the view from my seat and enjoying great company, great food, and great wine, I don't think theirs anything more I could ask for. The focus here is local seafood and I love Benitos concepts. I can’t thank Benito and family enough for their hospitality and the discussions on food and wine will always be memorable for me. My future visits to Ensenada will not feel complete without dining here.

Muelle Tres is open Wednesday to Sunday from 1 pm. to 6 pm (summer 8pm closing)
and is located on the north end of the board walk next to the mercado negro. Its actually in the same building farm raised mussels are prepared to be shipped to the U.S. and Central Mexico.

Ample parking is available at the entrance of Ensenada park just look for the lighthouse landmark.

Provecho!

More Sources
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/536474

La Guerrerense Ensenada - Street food at its finest

2009-02-09T10:09:00.000-08:00

I can’t think of many things I enjoy more then soaking in the city vibe and enjoying some exotic delicacies from a street cart. Ensenada has no shortage of Seafood street carts , but what is the standout favorite of many locals?
La Guerrerense on 1st and Alvarado.

La Guerrerense is anchored by the warm and friendly Sabina. Sabina and her family have been in business for over 40 Years! La Guerrerense was serving up ceviche when the main boulevard in Ensenada was just sand.

What makes La Guerrerense so special? First off the variety - Fish, Shrimp, Octopus, Clam, Cod, Sea Urchin, Mussel, Abalone, Crab Salad, Sea Snail, and Sea Cucumber. La Guerrerense works wonders with Mariscos and the quality and freshness of each creation is unmatched. From the sea to your mouth, nothing here is cooked so don’t expect to see a grill.

I really enjoy, the Erizo (Sea Urchin) topped with Almeja (Pismo Clams) The Soft , delicate, and creamy texture of Erizo balances well with the plump, meaty, and tender clam.

I love the clams here so much I usually just have them in their shell (en su concha).

In addition to the variety of fresh fish options they make some wonderful homemade salsas that are available for purchase. The fantastic avocado habanero is one of my favorite toppings. Don’t miss the homemade Agua fresca which is very refreshing.

If you want to experience some of the freshest seafood in Ensenada in its pure form, check out La Guerrerense. La Guerrerense is opened 10am-4 pm Everyday with exception of Tuesday and is located at the corner of 1st (Lopes Mateos) and Alvarado.

Other sources
http://www.ensenada.com/laguerrerense/index.html
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Weekly Updates !

2009-02-03T16:05:00.000-08:00

Check back soon updates will be weekly

Tacos Salceados Tijuana - The art of the taco

2009-01-29T23:38:00.000-08:00

With literally thousands of taco options in Tijuana its hard to find one taco establishment that stands above the rest. As far as I'm concerned a long time favorite of mine Tacos Salceados, or "La Ermita" as referred to by locals, is the pinnacle. I'm not talking about your average everyday street tacos. I'm talking about taco art, and it does not get much better than this.

The experience here is unique. The open kitchen allows you to watch all the action up close and personal. You can witness line cooks all responsible for a particular area in the production of your taco. It starts with the thick fresh hand made tortillas and ends with the Master Chef(Marcos)putting the finishing touches on your taco.

The Master

Omakase is the expression used at sushi restaurants to leave the selection to the chef, and its exactly what I do here. Omakase for tacos you say? On a recent visit I was pleasantly surprised by the artistic performance of the chef. The result was an innovative creation of mouthwatering goodness.

Salmon, jalapeno, cheese, mushrooms, topped with various house made salsas

New York Steak and Shrimp

The menu offers many choice fillings for your taco, I advise expanding beyond the carne asada taco and ordering some of the interesting combos. They offer more than just tacos, but the tacos are the reason I come here. In addition to the variety of tacos they have over 30 extraordinary house made salsas to choose from.

Tacos Salceados also happens to be the originator of the Quesataco. The creation of the quesataco starts with flakes of cheese spread across the flat iron stove. Your choice of cuts are then lined down the middle and then ultimately encased in the crisp golden cheese. The stuffed crisp cheese roll is then placed in a fresh thick tortilla, and topped with house dressings and avocado. Leaving here without trying one would be a crime.

Shrimp Quesataco

And the ultimate creation shrimp/pineapple Taco Dulce.

Tacos Salceados is just a 10 min ride from the border and is located at 30-A, Avenida Ermita-Norte, Fraccionamiento Santa Cruz La Mesa, Tijuana. Major cross street Blvd Agua Caliente and Avenida Ermita. Closed on Tuesdays.Open from 6 p.m. to midnight 6 days a week. Prices are very reasonable coming in about 10 dollars a person.

Here is a video I put together of the taco mastery,enjoy!
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Oaxaca in Ensenada

2009-01-27T16:13:00.000-08:00

************Closed ************************************
A NEW RESTAURANT AND OWNERSHIP HAS TAKEN OVER 2009

Opened just a few weeks Oaxaca at Viento is located in El Sauzal Ensenada, three miles south of the last toll station (San Miguel) on Scenic Hwy 1. Once you pass El Trailero Taqueria look for the El Viento Billboard. El Viento is a coastal development that is basically in the conceptual phase.

At the end of the long wooden corridor you are suddenly embraced by breathtaking views and Oaxacan hospitality. The husband and wife owners, Laura and Salavador, were more than willing to discuss their passion. Utilizing products shipped directly from Oaxaca, the menu is ever-changing. Laura and Salvador's goal is to introduce Oaxacan regional cuisine combined with local seafood to form a fusion between Baja California and Oaxaca.

The menu, which is not in print, is based on what they receive from their fresh Oaxacan shipment. I did not get to sample the Baja-Oaxaca fusion but I did get a taste of Oaxaca. The menu items of the day included

Mole Negro Tamale

Chiliquiles con Tasajo

Blanda con Mole Negro y Queso Fresco

Estofado de pollo

Chessecake with Oaxacan Chocolate

The Mole Negro Tamale with its perfect masa, balanced with the sweet and spicy Mole Negro, was worth the trip alone. The Oaxacan coffee and hot chocolate are also not to be missed.

While enjoying some Mezcal I was delighted to try the accompanying Maguey worms. Gusanos de maguey (chinicuiles) are edible worms that live in the maguey and agave plants. They are considered a delicacy and are often crushed in a spicy red salsita which is the wonderful concoction I was served.

Mezcal not your thing? They have access to a large variety of Baja wines from the wine cellar at Viento. For those interested El Viento has a wine club on Friday nights.

Come taste Oaxaca in a beautiful coastal setting.
Opened Wednesday - Friday 1pm - 10pm
Saturday 8am - 10pm
Sunday 8am - 5pm
KM.104 Scenic Highway 1 No 5826 El Sauzal, Ensenada BC Mex
The video I made of this wonderful coastal setting
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Tijuana's Newest Culinary Gem - Erizo Cebicheria

2009-01-27T12:49:00.000-08:00

Those familiar with Tijuana establishments Guiseppi's, Casa Plascencia, Villa Saverio's and Chula Vistas Romesco will be pleased to know of the newest addition to Familia Plasencia "Erizo Cebicheria".Erizo has been opened for just one week and is located in the affluent neighborhood of Chapultepec. Open daily from 11-7 Erizo is a perfect spot for a casual lunch, especially for you ceviche lovers. I would describe the Menu as Baja Peruvian fusion. Many of the ceviches are Peruvian influenced which explains the spelling "cebiche" in the their name. Some ceviches can be ordered as tostadas, and the specialty's by the plate. Highlights of my recent visit included...

Mesquite grilled Oysters in butter ponzu/chili serrano

Chili Gurreos stuffed with Crab and Shrimp (Toritos) with soy, citrus , and serrano

Green shrimp ceviche tostada. Chile serrano, chili habanero, cilantro, avocado, and red onions

Shrimp calamari dried mango ceviche tostatda. Toasted coconut chili habenero, cocunut milk, tamarindo, penut, and scallions. This is listed as a plate on the Menu but they were kind enough to let us sample a tostada

Some very exciting dishes indeed. I usually pick a stand out but everything I had here was perfect. The exotic combination of the shrimp calamari ceviche is unlike any other flavor combo Ive had, simply amazing! If that's not enough to excite you, perhaps you need a shot of Leche De Tigre (Tigers Milk), a favorite amongst Peruvians for hangover cure. It certainly packs a punch of vigor.

To complement the exciting menu they offer a selection of premium local beers and wine. The decor is clean and simple and the kitchen is open. Some menu items are written on a chalkboard and they also have an extensive paper menu. The service is what you expect at Villa Saverios (exceptional )and the value is hard to match.

Erizo Cebicheria Located in the same center as Caffe Saverios and walking distance(3 Blocks)from Villa Saverios

Ave Sonora No 3808-11 Major Cross street Blvd Agua Caliente Tel 686-1564